Malakand Field Force prep 6e: Painting Pathans

This project has been languishing - must step it up a bit!  With the Brits nearly done, it is time to consider their adversaries. With a 10/20 ratio, my Brits will have plenty of challenges patrolling the Northwest Frontier!

20 Pathans for priming and painting - a full Armies in Plastic box. This is a great box, perfect for the period in all respects, lively poses, good selection of weapons.

Next to 15mm WWII - ginormous!

PATHAN PAINTING NOTES

Summarized from:

Osprey "Northwest Frontier": Wilkinson-Latham, Robert

Osprey #219 "Victorias Enemies (3) India: Knight, Ian

"The Frontier Ablaze: The North-West Frontier Rising 1897-98": Barthorp, Michael

General

- Basic Garments: 

kullah = headgear, a stitched pointed cap [may be decorated]; 

kufi = popular patterned Muslim skull cap; regional variations, can be pillbox style

angarka = loose blouse or smock

lungi / pagri = long scarf, or sash tied around waist, or around kullah for a turban; can have contrasting stripes perpendicular to length; as turban, appear angled.

poshteen = reverse goatskin vest or coat [embroidered more if more status]

chadar = shawl

pyjama? = baggy trousers, partig were gathered at ankles

chapplis = sandals

Most garments were off-white, but some colors were worn.

- Tribes had predominant but not uniform color combinations:

Waziri = turban in dark red or indigo blue, lungi in dark blue/red or pink

Kurram Valley = dark blue angarka w' white patches [similar to dervishes]

Afridis in Khyber Pass [also Mamunds and Swatis] = grey or blue angarka [but mostly white?] w' off-white trousers. Lungi has contrasting stripes at ends perpendicular to length.

Bunerwals = dark blue or black garments

Many captured items of gear would be used, such as ammo pouches.

- Weapons

talwar = curved sword

chora = triangular knife of various lengths, single-edge blade tapering hilt to point

dahl = shield, round engraved metal, or heavy leather w' metal bosss and studs

jezail = long matchlock rifle

I have some interesting choices with the Pathans I've primed. I did prime them half tan and half white, and I think they have the right look.  The white will be the common off-white, and the tan will be Kurram Valley, perhaps - they sound unusual!

On another topic... Paintbrushes!

Tabletop Minions Atom Smasher commentary
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vfJdCimmKA

• brand not important - $6 for 5 brushes fine
• large synthetic brushes for big areas, small natural brushes for detail work
• clean with hair conditioner, leave in it overnight
• hair tie around water cup holds brushes overnight
• use the back end of the brush to get out the paint, not the bristles
• keep paint away from the farrel - only halfway down the bristles
• metallic paints wear bristles faster
• use different paints for metallic so the sparkles don't appear elsewhere
• Windsor Newton, Manila Road
• Vallejo Brush Cleaner

Overall, I found this to be a useful vid on a perennial topic!

On to the painting mines!

Malakand Field Force prep 6d: Painting Brits

I am pleased with how these are looking. As I finish up the final painting of objects, the next step will be lots of cutting in on the straps and other spots where the paint slopped over. This step will take a bit longer than others, but as it is exciting to see how the fig is turning out, it tends to go fast.

This fellow ended with a Snidely Whiplash sort of 'stache.

The officer needs a few touches here and there, shiny buckles and such.

Very pleased with the Lee-Metford rifles - they highlight easily. The brass studs on the bayonet handle also popped right up.

 Close up showing the brass butt plate on the rifle.

 More straps and buckle work, that's what this pic says to me!

Over white primer, both flesh tones look good. The grey is an intermediate stage for the dark blue of the winter Home Service trousers. They'll also get the red stripe.

As for the wet palette, it definitely keeps paint for several days. I think I put too much water in it at first. You can blot excessive water out by picking up the parchment paper and blotting the paper towel under it. Easier to add water than to remove it, however!

The black and tan [right] have been there a  few days. The brass and dark brown in the middle were also still damp [hadn't dried out] but I added color to change the tone.

A few thoughts:
- overall, these are pretty quick since the size makes it easier to paint accurately. However, one has to avoid the desire to add too much unnecessary details that aren't visible from more than a couple feet away.
- most of the objects have enough depth that you have to paint the sides [straps, water bottle, etc]. This requires cutting in later.
- definitely possible to paint these to a high standard, like good 28mm figs. The choice is yours. If you're just painting up a few dozen for skirmishes, then you're looking at a $30 project or so, that still fits on a modest dining table.
- don't prime excessively, and I am not seeing much benefit to the water/PVA glue mix thus far.

Looking forward to wrapping these up in a couple of days.

Malakand Field Force prep 6c: Painting Brits

Well, if this is your period, I hope you like to paint...STRAPS!

Above, I needed the originals on hand to see how the sculpting was done as my priming process was a bit too thick.

Painting Mojo has returned...was a bit rough getting started, but I'm now about halfway done with this batch of 10. They look a bit rough now, and it was very tempting to go the route of John Y as he paints the same figs at 54mm or Fight! [CLICK], painting up small batches of 3-4 figs to completion. But, I really want to get them all done, and it is helpful to keep in mind how a strap falls, or how a canteen is covered, etc, figure by figure, to stay focused.

Probably the toughest part for me is that I really do like to paint in lots of little details, and with this project I need to relax, let the little toy Soldiers be Little Toy Soldiers, and just do a clean, solid job that looks great at 3 feet [that's a meter for you French revolutionary types].

Below, you can see pretty well the scheme in progress. Black boots, dark olive puttees, dark brown equipment, white haversack...

 ...and below, light grey gunsling, ochre canteen cover, light olive canteen strap. I think that with modern uniforms that have a host of neutral tones one needs to accent any difference possible lest the sculpt be washed out in a palette of "all the same". Also, gear weathers differently, anyway.

Bit closer on the back. You can see how the straps are layered upon each other and then run under the waistbelt.

I think the painting light washes out some of the subtleties that are more apparent live.

Another closer shot. I think that the figs will really look good when the final details are upon them. That's part of the "small batch" inspiration - seeing how good a few figs will look.

 But hey, it's only ten figures! I'll Soldier on through it.

Nice close-up. Am seriously considering a miracle dip for these fellows, but perhaps a bit thin and not very dark.

Some of the detail has been lost or muted due to the excessively thick priming process I used. I will have to modify that post and show the results.

Below, you can see that the Pathan with a thinner vinyl paint cover has better details. Still, it was inevitable that the first batch of figs wouldn't be just right, no matter how much research I put into it. This is a very "crafty" hobby after all.

Well, I hope it is fun to see this moving along after all this time. My present goal is to finish the 20 Pathans and 10 Brits and get some games in before I depart for a warfighter in SEP. Then I can fine-tune my rules a bit based upon the results. Meanwhile, I'll be running around with the Army for the weekend, so probably no painting until next week.

Tune in then!

Malakand Field Force prep 6b: Painting Brits

Two Good Sources

Well, I have feelers out for more information from various websites [whether I'm a member or not], but using these two above sources primarily, this is what I've gathered. I will update if there is additional info provided by visitors direct by email.

Below is a combination of both specific and general notes on uniforms for 1897 to facilitate the miniatures painter.

India: Greater uniformity due to early introduction of khaki.
* Exceptions to all-khaki outfits are kilts, hose and spats of Highland Scot regiments and the tartan trews of Lowland Scot regiments. Scottish BN khaki frocks had cutaway skirts like their scarlet frocks ["cutaway" means that the front doesn't overlap much, and is rounded off, unlike the right angles and overlapping of the usual coat]. 
* Sewing of cartridge loops above the breast pockets fairly common - 10 easily accessible rounds. 
* Shoulder chains worn by British cavalry, copied from Indian Cavalry - silver on white cloth, atop both shoulders.
* "Undress" uniform worn in field - "dress" is for parade, e.g. the modern "dress mess" formal jackets.

Helmets: white [!?], with khaki covers. May have distinguishing insignia, such as a scarlet fold in the puggaree [cloth helmet cover] of the 2BN Northumberland Fus, or the bronze badge of the 1BN Buffs, or a red color swatch [square] with white letters/numbers. Enlisted helmets could vary in shape between battalions, but officer's purchased helmets were usually the same shape. Chinstrap was brown and worn up or down, brass button.

Drill frock [jacket]: Khaki, brass buttons, khaki cuff with a point [up] like a chevron - can draw in dark brown pen.

Equipment: By 1897 rising, 1888 Slade-Wallace equipment in buff for most British BN.  The Sam Browne belt of officers, [Oxfordshire Lt. Infantry] was also brown leather, in which case the braces and canteen strap match, but the haversack was still off-white. Northamptonshires stained their equipment khaki. 
*1894 pouches could be grey, off-white or white.
Haversack: always off-white.
India pattern canteen: khaki, brown strap, metal stopper with white string.
Mess tin: dulled metal, could have black cover.

Guns: usual medium brown varnish with metal "blueing". 
Gunsling is off-white, white or grey [dirt, bleaching].
Sword: newer had steel guard, older a brass one.
Bayonet: black scabbard with brass fittings, steel bayonet with brown [wood?] grip.

Trousers: khaki, or blue dungarees. But in winter could be dark blue serge with the infantry red stripe of home service, Also cord breeches [reinforced on inner thighs] and canvas gaiters for mounted infantry.
Puttees: darker khaki, blue for mounted or Royal Artillery, could be "quite pale" with a contrasting tie atop.
Shoes: black or brown, usually black. Sole may have some shiny silver nail heads showing, scraped against the terrain, i.e. "hobnail boots".

Rank: Captains two brass stars or "pips", Lieutenants one pip, 2nd Lieutenants none.
Rank Chevrons [points down, upper right sleeve only!] Sergeants have gold chevrons on red [removed from scarlet jackets?] while corporals had white. KOSB and Gordons followed earlier practice of wearing red chevrons on khaki or white. 
Good Conduct Chevrons could match, red on khaki, point up on left sleeve above cuff.
Badges such as Signaller would be worn above Good Conduct Chevron.
Rifle BDE at Tochi: dressed as English infantry but with black accoutrements and puttees.

Unit Selection
1BN, Northamptonshire Regt. heavily engaged.

Malakand Field Force prep p.6a: Painting Pathans and Brits

EDIT:
Rats, I'm so distracted sometimes, I forgot I meant to post WHY I got motivated to work on these guys. Was at a bible study and we were in Genesis and one of the participants noted that altho God created all the animals, fish, birds etc by speaking, man He sculpted from dust, and woman he sculpted from Adam's rib. This reminded me of my neglected little men, the little sculpts, and I decided I had to make some progress on them. So here we are, with the 54mm plastics back on the work bench. It's time they got some attention, even if it is not the hands of God himself. So...

Here it all 'tis, sitting under a bright IKEA table lamp which seems to wash out the daylight in the room and deepen the shadows. The water and glue are mixed in two ratios - "a bit goopy" and "thinner than that" [I hope you can follow the technical terminology at this dizzying height of the craft]. I will use the thicker mix for particularly rough or raised parts of the model, and the thinner for slighter ones, especially if I want to preserve details like on a face.


Below is a touch-up mix for a second coat - I put a few drops of Elmers and water on the tray. It was a bit thin so more drops of glue went in. You can spread the mix on the tray with a brush and add glue / water to opposite ends which is easy to track and work with quickly as you apply it.


The mix can be dabbed on thick [below] to hide areas where a mold line or rough spot is pronounced...

...it can be brushed on thick, especially over areas like swords that need extra strength [you can see where the Duplo I used for primer flaked off - but the glue mix seems to have smoothed it all out, so "successful intervention"]


Below, a few highlights of rough spots that I put glue onto attempting to smooth them out a bit. These shooters are particularly messy with mold lines.


These leader types have obvious spots that were trimmed post-priming. Hoping the glue process smooths them so they are not noticeable later, particularly during dipping.


Pooling - hard to prevent unless you lay the figures down at funny angles, but it is obvious and annoying. It will NOT look right on the fig! So you will have to work to prevent it.



Still do to:
- paint Brits and French exchange officer.
- paint the pathans.
End state - 20 pathan foot, 10 British foot and 2 mounted, 1 French foot.

A few thoughts for OHSW:
Pathan swordsmen - brawlers?
Pathan snipers
Pathans - muskets mostly
low force morale [looking for easy pickings]
British - rifles, high force morale

Looking forward to this in the near future...

Malakand Field Force Prep, p.5: More Colors, sticks, painting

As I have slooooowly made progress with this project, part has been working on colors. Painting anything this large requires a bit of thought, as the colors can be a bit darker as the figures are so big they'll appear a bit more true to life. Also, I have to remember to not take these little toy soldier types too seriously, as even neatly painted they'll still have that old-school feel and "realism" will be taking something of a back seat, anyway.

Below, the base coat for the British Khaki: Vallejo Dark Sand.


Roan for a horse? What do they say about red-headed girls...?

First camel - don't let his nose under your tent...

French officer, attached to Brits as a professional courtesy - but whose side is he on?

Serious preparations - first, I had to re-glue all the figures on the sticks. One may argue I don't need the sticks at all, but the individual plastic figs are very light and tend to fall over, which could lead to some flaking and such. So more for weight than difficulty handling.

Super Tacky Glue is dirt cheap and dries with a lot of flexibility. Elmers dries brittle and is very useful for temporary gluing that will be followed by removal - figs will pop right off a stick or base. However, it really doesn't want to stick to the bottom of these guys! So I removed them all very easily and reattached them with the Super Tacky.


So this is where the painting project is currently standing - must continue learning techniques for cleaning off or otherwise mitigating mold lines. Overall, I think these limey's are ready for a lot more paint!

Malakand Field Force Prep, p.4: the Colors of Khaki

"Haven't seen any Fuzzy-Wuzzy's, have you Nigal?"


There's a wide variety of khaki tones. The origins are from British soldiers in India dying their summer whites ["India Whites" to US Army] using tea, coffee, mud, curry powder, or colored inks, etc to get the khaki [dust-colored] color. So there is a huge variety of color tones, including: Lavender to blue, dark to light grey, and brown to tan to sand to off-white  [Osprey's "The British Army on Campaign (3), 1856-1881" p.23]. 

In 1885 a color-fast version of the khaki was implemented in the entire Army in India [so British and Native soldiers alike] which undoubtedly brought more uniformity to the uniform...no pun intended [Osprey's "The British Army on Campaign (4), 1882-1902" p.24].

A few examples are below, including actual museum pieces [with dummies], replicas [with re-enactors], and color plates from Barthrop's "The Frontier Ablaze" [which is a wonderful book, btw]. As these were from Pinterest, it's hard to trace the sources - if you've any to add, just put them in Comments below, Thanks! 



   


These two both Barthrop.




1900, 1910, 1914 khaki in Osprey's "Indian Army Regiments".

So, all well and good. We've reproductions, we've museum pieces, and artistic interpretations, but what does this come down to for the Wargamer and Painter?

AIP sells its figs in groups of 20 Infantry that are typically ten poses, so two of each. They could quite realistically represent detachments from several regiments who are foraging, patrolling, etc, so even in a skirmish setting could have uniform variations. 

This brings in the issue of game scale, as in how many people each figure represents, and what size formation the figure group / Unit represents, as it will affect game mechanics. For example, most wargames use a 1:20 ratio and will have a 480 fig battalion that looks like a platoon, but moves like a regiment in mechanics, altho the weapon ranges will usually be exaggerated so that it seems like a company of Soldiers.

My intent is to do skirmishing, so either 1:1 or up to 1:5, where a "unit" of ten is 10-50 men. This will provide a hot spot for the Soldiers to do their thing up close and personal. Think of it as "The Sword and the Flame" style, but with much simpler mechanics and no bathtubbing.

So for the first Unit, I've ten primed and ready figs from the Box 5423, "British Army on Campaign, Northwest Frontier 1985-1902, British Infantry" one of each pose:
 
https://www.armiesinplastic.com/northwest-frontier.html

Have to say, this is JUST what the little fellas look like - love it!


So it's time to think of some varying color palettes for each "Unit" of Soldiers, whether they are in Units of 10, 20, 40, whatever. My rule for actual painting colors is:
- visible to the eye and a couple of feet,
- strong contrasts to show color variations in articles of clothing / gear,
- look right to scale [usually means brighter than in real life]
- easy to work with [so water-based whenever possible]
- ability to stand up to the Miracle Dip in various shades
This has produced servicable and - sometimes - complimented miniatures that have been pleasing over the years.

What might that look like with this first batch?

First, I did some paint samples against the - large - bases, which of course are primed the same as the figure - plus they are quite large. 

• Left fig has a light grey at 6 and the khaki I'm using for my15mm British Desert Rats at 3 - it is GW Commano Khaki, but I've mixed other stuff from Vallejo in it.
• Right fig has Vellejo Lt. Brown at 12, an anonymous Polly-S brown at 3, Vallejo Dark Sand at 6, Butternut at 7, and Buff at 9.

Notice how the Vallejo Dark Sand almost disappears - it's a very near match to the primer.

There's also a sampling of the blue for the blue serve trousers - obviously, a white prime on them isn't the way to go. But I prefer the one on the left.
At this point, I'm leaning to a Vallejo Dark Sand coat, khaki puttees, and lt grey or off-white straps. I may give the officer a buff coat - just to show his custom tayloring - and the butternut actually looks like a good flesh color...


Well, that's all for now - off to Cold Wars to sell off a bunch of stuff and check out the occasional game!

Another Minor Action on the Frontier...

As development of the rules continues, the difficult process of balancing tactical mechanics and streamlining has to be worked out through actual play. There's just no other way to do it! I do like working within a scenario and context, so here we go again, back to the Swat Valley, as two patrols clash at a river ford.

Below, the central portion of the table and the forces: 20 Pathans, 10 Brits. Both forces are almost 100 points as I presently have them figured - balancing the weapons is tough.


Seven warriors with talwar and dahl [sword and shield], Leader Gobi with pistol. They need a designated Leader to get in there and close with the enemy.


Eleven jezaileers [a suprisingly accurate flint or matchlock musket], four upgraded with Rifles [breechloading]. Leader Chapati with pistol. Plan is to snipe at a distance with Rifles, keep the jezails close to the dahl men to shoot or charge in support. All the Afghans are seasoned warriors, with a Quality of 4+ [represents both morale and fighting skill like shooting]


British Patrol of ten, a half - Section of 20 men in this period.

Two details of four Soldiers, one led by Sergeant Scone to left, the other by an officer to right, Captain Biscuit. They are Elite [Quality 3+ so they pass Quality Tests on a 3+] and armed with Rifles [Breechloading Martini-Henry's - Figs actually have bolt-action Lee-Metfords it appears]. Their plan is to give the savages what-for and get back in time for tea and crumpets.

Turn 1. The British won the roll-off and started with Initiative [IN]. They chose to go "Ready" with their entire force off-table, and have the Pathans enter first, giving them the opportunity to react to the Pathan plan. With no choice, the Pathans enter, all running onto the board.


Turn 1 Pathan dahls and jezails run up the middle, looking for Cover to approach the British and close range for shooting. The unbased figs are spaced to be "Apart" giving them a '2' save, or a 5+ on D6. This represents being spread out and using cover, crouching, etc., and the Fast Move in indicated by the dust cloud to remind me they don't get Cover Saves.


Turn 1 Pathan Rifles head towards a little wood with a commanding view up the river to a wood and rocky hill, both obvious spots for the Brits to take up a position. They're a little distant, but their 36" Range is enough to cover most of the center.


Turn 1 British also run onto the board, heading for a rocky hill that will provide Cover and a commanding view [hills add 12" to Range due to better visibility]. It is a bit close to opposing cover on the other side, but the river slows the Pathans and the other detail will support.


Turn 1 British Sergeant takes his detail into some rocks [not a hill] with a view over the ford, a likely place for the Pathans to cross against the Officer's detail. They can also see the Pathan Rifles in the distance, giving them a sure Target next turn.


Turn 2. Pathans Seize Initiative! Beating them by 1 [3+2= 5 v. 6] the Pathans decide to go Ready with the Rifles - they will now take Actions after the British [I use the green sprockets to show "Ready"]. This gives them an effective "reaction" or counter-move. The rest of them move up into the rocks or prepare to dash across the open space to the ruins.


Turn 2 British. With no shooting threats or targets, the Officer's detail advances onto the rocky hill [just visible behind large lovely tree]; the sergeant's detail takes an Aim Action doubling their range and allowing them to shoot 72" instead of 36" - they can now target any visible Pathan next turn! This is indicated by the little crosshair marker. 
Note how the Action allows what is effectively "overwatch" without a lot of complex rules...

Turn ends as Pathan Rifles also Aim, so they can hit any visible Imperialist next turn.

Turn 3 - Pathans Retain IN [3+2=5 v. 2]. Using their ability to act first, the Pathan Rifles take a Long-Range Shot at Sergeant's Detail, having Aimed last turn [which doubles Range as noted above]. Unfortunately, needing a 4+ they get no Hits.

Turn 3. With no shooting threats and IN in hand, the Pathan warriors dash behind the ruins out of Line of Sight of the Sergeant's men and in Cover. The jezaileers take up shooting positions on the rocky hill. 


Turn 3, British support fire returns the favor against the Rifle-armed Pathans.  How'd they get Martini-Henry's anyway?? They are Elite and need a 3+ except for the Sergeant who needs a 2+ since he's a Hero. Naturally, like all superior Figs I use, he misses anyway. He only misses on a '1', and the red/black dice below is his.
NOTE - to speed up shooting, I just drop the total dice understanding that I'm spreading the shots out 1-1 on targets, applying the dice as they fell to the targets top to bottom. So these 4 dice groups are the 4 Rifle Pathans, 1-2-3-4 going down from the top.

Against the top Pathan, they roll [above]an auto-miss with the '1' [thanks Sarge!], and an auto-Pin with the '6' [note marker for Pathan 1]. Next is a miss on Pathan 2. The 3rd and 4th Pathans are Hits, but they make their 3+ save [2 for Cover, 2 for Figs Apart].

Turn 3 end. Brits take positions in rocks on the other side of the river. All moved, no shots.


Turn 4 - IN roll ties! There is a Respite, and everyone loses Smoke [Reloaded] and the Pinned Pathan recovers from being Pinned [as there's no Leader within 6", he needed to pass a Quality Test which he does easily on a 5 needing a 4]. No one has IN now.


Turn 5, Brits seize back the IN! [6 v 2, no plus for either side due to the Respite] 
Having the IN, both detachments shoot first targeting the warriors who will obviously charge CPT Biscuit's detachment, hoping to trim them down a bit. I could target some of the shooting Pathans, but hope to knock out a few of the dahl men and better the melee odds.

Above, the Sarge's detachment gets four Hits for five, not bad. The '1' is an auto-miss, the Sergeant's '2' is a Hit [barely] and the 4-4 & 5 are Hits, but the green 6 and 3 are good Saves [again, needing a 3+]. The other two miss Saves, but then easily pass their Quailty Test [QT] and there's no effect - some determined Pathans here!


Officer's Revolver is out of Range, so the four Rifles shoot, getting only two Hits. One Save misses but the Pathan rolls high and passes his QT - fights not out of these savages yet!

Turn 5 - Pathans. Jezaileers have a 24" Range but the hill gives them a bonus 12" so they're all easily in Range. They shoot 7, hit only twice [c'mon it's 50% guys!!]. Brits save one, and pass the QT with a '3' on the officer [who was fired at 3 times!]. 
CPT Biscuit calmly whisks some dust from his lapel...


Turn 5 Pathan dahls advance through the ruins, using cover and spread out.


Turn 6 British keep IN and start shooting. SGT Scone's detail gets four Hits, Pathans miss three saves. The resulting QT has two of them pinned [they'd be Wounded on a '1'].


Turn 6 British fire from the rocky hill.

Three Hits, one failed save, Pathan passes Quality Test.

Turn 6 Pathan Rifles have two Pins from which to recover, and they do on a 5 and 4. The other two fire to no effect, missing both times [still getting used to the rifles? damp powder?]
CPT Biscuit makes mental note to bring more repellent for "these pesky mosquitoes..."




Turn 6 Pathan dahls begin crossing river, staying spread out to reduce casualties. The Jezaileers all Reload [losing the smoke marker] to support the attack next turn.


Turn 7, British keep IN and fire everyone on the advancing dahl warriors. Results are an auto-Pin with the 6 and two Saves from Scone's men...


...and three auto-pins from Biscuit's men. I'm not liking that a "good roll" like a 6 doesn't have more serious ramifications than an auto-pin result.


Turn 7 Pathan jezaileers fire, getting two Pins and a failed Save followed by a passed QT. Not bad since Pinned Figs don't fight as well in melee and can't shoot.



Turn 7 Pathan Dahls close in, get into three melees.

The top results in a Pathan win but a successful Cover Save. The middle against CPT Biscuit results in a loss, a failed Cover Save [needs a 5+, note that you don't get the "Apart" Save in melee, just from shooting] and the CPT dies losing all three wounds since he is Pinned. Well, the holes in his jacket and blood will certainly send his batman into a tizzy...
The bottom Soldier loses but makes his Cover Save, avoiding Biscuit's fate.

Comment on Game Mechanic Development.
Hmmm, recent changes in shooting do result in more Pins, but I'm not sure if there's enough actual effect from it. Will have to see how melee goes to judge where the mechanics are at this point. 
- I like the low wounds from shooting, but
- it seems a easy to recover from. 
Of course, the Pathans are rolling very well on the Quality Tests, which does throw perception off a bit. I could play a game not rolling dice much, and instead just giving average results at all times - this has been suggested [perhaps by Kaptain Kobold?] but I keep forgetting to do it!