Blimey, it's a whole Jap company hidden in there!
https://unsplash.com/backgrounds/nature/jungle
Actually, it could be a battalion or more...
Despite the fact that it is fast play, I haven't managed another run-thru of One-Hour Skirmish Wargames in a long while, and ended up a bit rusty on this run-thru. Still, it was a good time and a nail-biter, and Mr. Winkie and I enjoyed it despite the constant interruptions from Kanga and her Roo. This does say good things about the system, as it is fast-moving, tactically interesting and entertaining even when you are not doing it right!
This fight had roughly equal forces, with a couple of fire teams on each side, but the Brits had an extra LMG while the Japs had a bunker and a sniper. Arguably, this could have forces of unequal value, with the needed victory points to win lowered as the defense increases in size. As I'd never played the scenario "when it doubt - equal it out".
The layout may interest some people. I've toyed around with various ways to do skirmish game terrain, and my present system is based upon readings of the jungle warfare on Guadalcanal, specifically "Shots Fired in Anger" if you're curious. It goes like this:
- Terrain is in 3" and 6" terrain templates.
- A figure that touches the terrain piece, or is inside the terrain template, has a hard or soft cover advantage, as appropriate by the terrain type, e.g. rocks v. brush.
- 3" templates have a mutual Line of Sight into but not thru them.
- 6" templates have mutual LoS to the edge only.
As OHSW has the lovely simple 6" move rate for Infantry, and this is a strictly infantry fight, almost all the terrain is spaced so that Infantry touching one piece of terrain, e.g. the grey base of the large trees, can make it to the next one in only one move. This is to simulate the relatively heavy cover of the jungle.
If this was a European fight, There would be some larger open spaces of 9-12", requiring that figs either end their move in the open [quite vulnerable] or pay the Action Points [AP] to dash across the open space in one Move. There could even be some 13-18" gaps, thru which a daring Infantryman could do a triple move! This costs a whopping 9 AP, +1 to shoot at the end of it. But if you are not to worried about how vulnerable 1-2 figs would be, and maybe the dude's a crazy hero type, might be worth trying!
It should be noted that it might take a move of almost 6" to get to the far side of a template, so it may not be one consecutive move, template to template; you may have to dash across the open and touch the next template 6" away, just making it. Then, shift to the far side of the template, staging yourself to dash almost 6" to touch the next terrain template. Hope that makes sense.
All this to say, that this board is more or less covered in terrain, altho it doesn't look like it, and there's no reason for smart players to always have their men in cover. Rocks and the bunker are obviously hard cover, and shell craters to trees and the stream edge are all soft cover. Low soft cover like the shell craters and stream edge are zero cover v. someone on a higher elevation, e.g. atop a rock, in a tree, etc. It would be good to put some kind of Spanish moss in the open spaces to give it more flavor, but this is enough for now.
To make things fun for Mr. Winkie, we each have a team of Brits on the recon mission, and we will roll off against each other as necessary for the Japanese opposition. Below, he is studying the terrain and the opposition. There are three Soldiers of Nippon in the abandoned native village, four in the bunker including the LMG team, a couple in the trees behind [one up the tree], and the command team of sword-waving officer, radio operator and sniper on the near corner rock formation. Note that even being atop a tree or rock means you are in the cover as you are "in the template".
Craters and stream by Pegasus, rock formations are pet lizard terrarium features by "All Living Things" , native huts are craft store bird houses, and the trees are by Lemax.
Mr. Winkie shows his warrior face - "Blimey, e's a Limey!" Bunker Japs are ready. Interestingly, I had this identical bunker when I was a child - presently made by BMC.
Below, view from the British side. You can now see the sniper atop the rocks at right far corner. Brits are starting from Table Edge where they will enter. Atop the two large rock formations are vantage points for recon spotting. The bunker has valuable papers worth stealing. Any Jap overwhelmed in Close Combat can be taken prisoner [per the rules...should be much harder for the fanatical Japanese!] and is worth victory points also. The points on the papers and prisoner are doubled if they are moved off the table [British edge, of course]. The Japs get points for killing Brits and breaking the force.
Obviously, attacking the bunker via the high rocks is the path to Victory points, and we divide the Brits into two forces. The one on the left has the LMGs and is the "Fire" force. That on the right has the grenadiers and is the "Maneuver" and assault force. Mr. Winkie opts for the Fire team. Plan is to use their firepower from the central location to suppress enough Japs to occupy both hilltops and then take the bunker by assault - any prisoners can be taken off the board lickety-split and we'll all be home for some brew in a jiffy!
Winkie brings his force in a bit farther to left than planned. However, his careful use of the Jack we drew downs a Jap sentry in the village.
I should mention that instead of drawing cards to resolve combat we rolled d10s [I wanted d12's but just couldn't find the stupid things...] which speeded things up a bit, and decreased the amount of cards drawn - this slowed down the appearance of Joker's and lengthened the turns. After my last few games, I wanted to try this.
Some great dice in the center down a gunner in the bunker.
So far, the AP's are favoring the Brits a bit, which shows.
After a few Player Phases, the Joker comes up and Turn 1 ends. The Downed figs are resolved: Brits draw some Black which is Back, but also draw two Hearts and lose two dead! Japs only draw one Red and lose one Dead.
Drawing against the number of dead, both sides easily pass morale on the first card draw [which must be higher than the number of dead, so the Brits needed a 3+ and Japs a 2+].
Actually, I guess the Brits had a narrow escape with a '4'!
As play progresses, my Manuever Force takes it in the teeth, with numerous downed figs, and another Dead. At the next Turn end, Brits and Japs easily pass, needing 4+ and 2+ respectively. This game, I played that Diamonds just remained "Down" while Hearts were still dead and Black cards were "Back" as per the rules.
At the end of Turn 3, the Brits have advanced on the village, and are concentrating some fire on the bunker, but haven't made much progress in the way of Victory Points! I'm starting to think that the best VP will be to break the Jap force, so I change plans and back Mr. Winkie's succeeding move on the village with the wrong team - not that there's much choice as most of my team is Dead or Down!
Both sides easily pass with '7' and 'Joker' respectively.
After some strenuous efforts, we Down the closest Jap with a Tommy-gunner and he is auto-Dead after being attacked in Close Combat [CC]. With the one other Deader being from the village force, it looks even better to keep pushing here.
The Bren LMG Downs the last Jap rolling a high of '10'...
...and the Tommy Gunner CC's him for another Dead-er.
Now, to maneuver this force thru the village and attack the bunker, preferably from the rear where it will be more vulnerable. We accomplish this quicker than I thought as some great cards come our way. Soon, two riflemen have crossed the stream [which costs two moves] and we've finally downed some more of the Japs in the trees.
Mr. Winkie is gleefully espying the route to victory!
The next cards are critical as a Jap card could enable them to turn about and fight the Brits, while a Joker might end with all the Downed Japs being just fine again!
But Fortune favors the Limeys - they dash in and make quick work of two Sushis. This is quickly followed by tearing up most of the bunker group. They also seize the papers!
Interestingly, the entire Jap force is Downed. This means they cannot activate anyone, so I was uncertain what to do. I kept drawing for Initiative and drawing a card for the Japs when they won, but they couldn't use the card. I figured it still moved their deck forward and made the drawing of a Joker closer even if it was via shuffling upon their last card being drawn.
But the Brits activated a few times, and bayoneted, shot or otherwise disposed of several Japs. Finally, their deck ran out and was shuffled, and a Joker was quickly drawn. The Japs easily passed with a King. The Brits needed a 6+, but drew a '5'. No problem, since they get three more draws with Leftenant Pennyworth's Leadership [3]. Amazingly, they draw a '4', a '2' and another '5', and withdraw from the field!
Well, that was quite a surprise, but certainly "the luck of the draw" as Han Solo would say. Ben Kenobi would say that there's no such thing as luck. What would the Limeys say?
In any event, it was a fun game either way. Altho the victory conditions and points were messed up as I forgot to take the prisoner and the papers off the table, I counted it as a Brit win as they suppressed the entire Jap force, seized both vantage points and the bunker, and took out all bunker personnel seizing the papers as well. Altho their force broke, it was not forced by the Japanese who had no active personnel at the time, so I concluded it was an orderly withdrawal.
It was strange at first that once side had nothing to do. This was the first time this had happened, but altho odds are against it I should've realized this possibility. If all four Jokers come up quickly, and the forces are not large [more likely later in the game after casualties] one side could have the entire remainder of its force "Down" and unable to act as the card decks continue along their merry way.
I decided to just keep playing, but not acting with the Japanese so their Action Points card was just wasted, while the Brits continued to act normally. This would have resulted in the entire Japanese force being destroyed in Melee had I played all of it correctly, but I'd forgotten to act every other Player with the British, and the Japs got a number of - useless - player turns in a row.
Per the Turn Sequence, p. 6, Players drawn off for Initiative, and the high card gets first Player Phase, followed by the second Player taking a second Player Phase. This sequence of IGO-UGO continues until a Joker is drawn and the Turn ends, at which time Army Morale is checked and if both sides pass Casualties are then adjudicated. I was playing it wrong by always drawing off each Player Phase. Actually, this worked just fine altho it *could* have resulted in one side getting several Turns in a row.
Also, one could nuance the victory conditions a bit. A Recon Mission includes the assumption that the force will depart whenever it has achieved enough of its goals, so the opposition should get no victory points for breaking the recon force, IMHO.
Overall, this was a great time with great figs and great terrain, and I'm looking forward to more action and painting up these figs and more of the terrain, for even better looking battles. I think it will be more and more fun for Mr. Winkie, and there are very few games around that are equally challenging and fun for young and old, newbs and grognards alike, so again highly recommend you get this book and try these rules.
I must admit, I'm thinking of playing them again - straight - just to get a better feel for them, altho I'll probably keep the "Diamonds are still Down" mod as I like it.
Modern Warfare from Afghanistan to N. Africa to Mexico, and from the 20th C. to the Near Future!
Thursday, October 31, 2019
Sunday, October 27, 2019
Cheap WWII Plastic; The Pacific, p.2 - the U.S.
X-acto blades & Band-aids...
...two great things that go great together - unfortunately.
Pushing forward with this project quickly, I cleaned the U.S. Army figs with an x-acto blade, occasionally rubbing bits off with my thumbnail, Steps 1 and 2 below. It took about 10 minutes per fig with these hard-er plastics. Of course, I got one shallow cut from the back swing of the X-acto blade; this insured that I managed a jagged cut with one of the sharpest blades around which is PURE GENIUS!!!
These figs are still softer than the styrene in the high quality wargame plastics like Perry Brothers, Warlord, etc, but harder and much easier to work with than AIP. In the Bucket of Army Men, they cost about 10 cents a fig!
The process I'm following is modified from a previous post on soft plastic painting techniques [CLICK]:
In Step 3. I used the common dish soap we had in the house, figuring that is is made to cut grease, so should work on the mold residue oils or whatever.
I use these plastic containers from a favorite Chinese food place to store and transport lots of my 15mm WWII figs / tanks. They are free and stack pretty well, altho they aren't the ideal shape. I usually use a clean cotton rag to cushion them. Here, you can put hot water and dishoap in them, seal them up and shake briskly to get the initial cleaning done.
I then scrub with a soft toohbrush, but a medium or hard might work a bit better depending on the job. Be certain to support any weak bits of the model with your fingers soasnotto break them, e.g. the M2 barrel below:
Step 4, I'm still trying out the Dupli-color vinyl spray recommended by Dervel. It is not cheap, at about $8 a can, but I do like the way it goes on - not too wet. Note that I'm spraying "down" the model towards the base. The base would shadow some of the spray otherwise.
I then go along the row in both directions. It is best to wait about 15-30 minutes for an initial drying of each coat. More thin coats are supposed to be stronger than one wet one.
After an hour or more, I flip and do the other side. It is also possible to stand them up to spray them, BUT you would almost certainly have to lightly glue them to the cardboard as the power of the spray itself will usually knock them over. As I do other tasks around the house between coats, I'm not really in a hurry, so flipping them is fine with me.
Note that the angling down the row in both directions gets most of the side, but not "up" the fig from the bottom [below]:
...which does require a light coat "up" the figure. I also think it's good to prime the bottom of the figs base as it will help it be glued to any base for continued ease of handling during the painting process.
For Step 5, I used what was laying around the house, a spray can of Testors #1265 Flat Olive Drab, which seems like a good medium tone to use - not too dark or too light.
This turns out to be a bit wet, and there's some pooling underneath the models where they touch the cardboard:
View of wet splotch on the elbow to right - will dry looking bad:
Wiped off the blotches of excess spray paint with alcohol and a clean rag, and they're looking pretty good...
...and with the flash. Below is a 1.5x2" base I'll be using.
...and in the laundry room - driest room in the house thanks to the gas furnace. They can cure all night as long as Home 6 doesn't tear into the room and toss them everywhere putting in the laundry - another hazardous duty for them!
Next day, they are well dried, and here's their status:
Color and mold lines are OK. Unfortunately, I missed the subtler injection circles on them. On both torsos:
and on legs:
They will be more noticeable after painting / dipping. Only way I can see to hide them is with Green Stuff. This is a bit annoying as I haven't worked with it in years, but I think it's going to be a requirement for working with these fellows.
More on this, and the basing, soon!
...two great things that go great together - unfortunately.
Pushing forward with this project quickly, I cleaned the U.S. Army figs with an x-acto blade, occasionally rubbing bits off with my thumbnail, Steps 1 and 2 below. It took about 10 minutes per fig with these hard-er plastics. Of course, I got one shallow cut from the back swing of the X-acto blade; this insured that I managed a jagged cut with one of the sharpest blades around which is PURE GENIUS!!!
These figs are still softer than the styrene in the high quality wargame plastics like Perry Brothers, Warlord, etc, but harder and much easier to work with than AIP. In the Bucket of Army Men, they cost about 10 cents a fig!
The process I'm following is modified from a previous post on soft plastic painting techniques [CLICK]:
- Gentle-scrape mold lines with X-Xacto, cut obtrusive plastic bits, etc
- Rub or scrape with fingernail flaky little bits of plastic
- Soak in [hot water, dish soap], scrub w' toothbrush, warm water rinse, air dry
- Dupli-Color vinyl [grey, black, tan?]
- Spray with the basic color [or close tone] of the uniform.
- PVC glue / water mix against areas of visible mold lines, etc to soften contrast.
- [Black wash - if strong shadowing desired]
- Block paint [the highlights if using step 7]
- Miracle-dip shaded or clear gloss / satin coat, depending on desired finish. Gloss = more toy Soldier look, flat is more realistic, etc.
Dervel:
My process learned from a master of painting flexible plastic figures is:
1. Wash with soapy water.
2. Spray with flexible plastic like Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric spray (from Autozone).
3. Paint with my usual water based acrylics.
4. Spray with Plasti-dip clear.
5. Testors Dullcote to reduce the shine.
2. Spray with flexible plastic like Dupli-Color vinyl and fabric spray (from Autozone).
3. Paint with my usual water based acrylics.
4. Spray with Plasti-dip clear.
5. Testors Dullcote to reduce the shine.
In Step 3. I used the common dish soap we had in the house, figuring that is is made to cut grease, so should work on the mold residue oils or whatever.
I use these plastic containers from a favorite Chinese food place to store and transport lots of my 15mm WWII figs / tanks. They are free and stack pretty well, altho they aren't the ideal shape. I usually use a clean cotton rag to cushion them. Here, you can put hot water and dishoap in them, seal them up and shake briskly to get the initial cleaning done.
I then scrub with a soft toohbrush, but a medium or hard might work a bit better depending on the job. Be certain to support any weak bits of the model with your fingers soasnotto break them, e.g. the M2 barrel below:
Step 4, I'm still trying out the Dupli-color vinyl spray recommended by Dervel. It is not cheap, at about $8 a can, but I do like the way it goes on - not too wet. Note that I'm spraying "down" the model towards the base. The base would shadow some of the spray otherwise.
I then go along the row in both directions. It is best to wait about 15-30 minutes for an initial drying of each coat. More thin coats are supposed to be stronger than one wet one.
After an hour or more, I flip and do the other side. It is also possible to stand them up to spray them, BUT you would almost certainly have to lightly glue them to the cardboard as the power of the spray itself will usually knock them over. As I do other tasks around the house between coats, I'm not really in a hurry, so flipping them is fine with me.
Note that the angling down the row in both directions gets most of the side, but not "up" the fig from the bottom [below]:
...which does require a light coat "up" the figure. I also think it's good to prime the bottom of the figs base as it will help it be glued to any base for continued ease of handling during the painting process.
For Step 5, I used what was laying around the house, a spray can of Testors #1265 Flat Olive Drab, which seems like a good medium tone to use - not too dark or too light.
This turns out to be a bit wet, and there's some pooling underneath the models where they touch the cardboard:
View of wet splotch on the elbow to right - will dry looking bad:
Wiped off the blotches of excess spray paint with alcohol and a clean rag, and they're looking pretty good...
...and with the flash. Below is a 1.5x2" base I'll be using.
...and in the laundry room - driest room in the house thanks to the gas furnace. They can cure all night as long as Home 6 doesn't tear into the room and toss them everywhere putting in the laundry - another hazardous duty for them!
Next day, they are well dried, and here's their status:
Color and mold lines are OK. Unfortunately, I missed the subtler injection circles on them. On both torsos:
and on legs:
They will be more noticeable after painting / dipping. Only way I can see to hide them is with Green Stuff. This is a bit annoying as I haven't worked with it in years, but I think it's going to be a requirement for working with these fellows.
More on this, and the basing, soon!
Wednesday, October 23, 2019
More 54mm - 1/32 WWII cheap plastics: The Pacific, p.1
Tennōheika Banzai! Banzai-Banzai-Banzai!
https://www.deviantart.com/leevancleefiii/art/Banzai-Charge-433473713
"I'll take the !@$#%*& with the sword, you get the guy with the flag."
https://www.warhistoryonline.com/instant-articles/the-horrific-mass-suicides.html
Not having anything in the way of British campaign memoirs, I decided to go back to a great book I was planning to re-read anyway [and had recommended to one of my 1SGTs recently], "Shots Fired in Anger".
"Shots Fired in Anger" is a classic, an unapologetic and wonderfully detailed account of LTC John George's fighting in Guadalcanal with the 132nd Infantry Regiment [an Illinois Guard outfit] and with Merrill's Marauders in Burma. He wrote this soon after the war, and it is impactful in its incidental contrast with today's literary styles, including war memoirs. He doesn't wallow in gore or self pity, nor use foul language, nor does he gratuitously sexualize his account [all-to-common and contemptible trends in modern literature]. In short, this book IS of the time, in a good way, instead of just a distant reflecting on that time. I am considering reading it with my son.
The Guadalcanal portion of the book also has lots of pencil drawings and commentary about the Japanese Soldier, his weapons, tactics and habits, as well as an honest, unembellished account of LTC George's part in the fighting [and hilarious avoidance of fatigue duties]. He also includes the sort of details that Soldiers enjoy reading, like jungle survival and tactics, the pitfalls of institutional thinking and unnecessary sufferings of doughboy in every war. My local library has it, but it is pretty available at Abe Books and Amazon [CLICK].
In other literature, "Helmet for My Pillow" and "With the Old Breed" are also at my local library, and I've always wanted to read them. Still need to get at least one book on painting up my Japanese, and this project makes me want to get a Sgt. Rock omnibus or something - it's so "retro" 1970.
"The Pacific" Miniseries and "Hacksaw Ridge" are also in the video closet, and I've never watched them. While it is pretty hard to see videos these days due to bed times, our baby and noise levels, I definitely need to watch these soon.
So, there's some inspiration for this project, as well as it being a place I've never spent a lot of time.
As to project progress, it is shaping up quickly and nicely. The Japanese are featured in my previous post on these figs [CLICK]. The US, after some looking around, I decided to just use the ones we already had, and honestly a reassessment of them shows them to be a bit less characterful but still solid figs. In a way, it is sort of suitable for them to be a bit more drab - GI Authentic, perhaps?
Mr. Winkie and I have 12 poses that came in the bucket. Six are typical fighting poses, four are support weapons and two are support / leadership poses. As you can see immediately, the sculpting is deep and there's plenty of authentic looking gear on them, and the proportions are quite nice. My understanding is these are most likely Airfix knock-offs.
Two shootin' guys - the poses look natural, especially the kneeling pose which is how I'd shoot kneeling.
Stabbin' guy? Maybe he's shooting someone in a foxhole? Could also be peeking around a corner. His bayonet may have been left off the sculpted or cast copy. Grenade guy has a pose that reminds me of how I was taught to throw grenades, and has plenty of spare ones!
Crawl, walk, run - that's how we teach it in the Army, and here we have Crawling and Running guys. Again, very natural poses, nice proportions.
Boomer and Heat Miser, they are most likely to bust pillboxes and other strongpoints, as not many Japanese tanks around these days, but who knows? Maybe they'll head to France. Bazooka guy looks like he's just sighting out a target, not actually aiming at one since he's low [or on a hill]. Could be fixed with basing, or just ignored.
Grease-gun Gus and Ma Deuce, there to provide the firepower up close and far away.
So, guy on left could be any officer, or FO Guy. On right would be Obvious Commander guy. Interestingly, he's a left draw with his rather small sidearm. Perhaps a souvenir Jap pistol? Looks like a captain at least.
Overall, while these are a bit less characterful than the Brits and Japs, they are still quite good sculpts, well worth the second glance I've given them.
Another great piece of good fortune is that Decision Games has a solitaire game about Merrill's Marauders which I've now purchased, along with "Roger's Rangers: America's First Commandos" [CLICK] since I have the AIP F&I War figs which are really lovely sculpts [CLICK]. And I couldn't resist the operational level but highly rated Khe Sanh altho I won't be doing a miniatures game with it.
I really like DC's mini games and posted extensively on the Musket and Saber ones [CLICK] for which I re-wrote the rules...they were that much fun to play. If you want a copy of the re-write, just LMK. I'm hoping the Solitaire ones are just as good - they did get plenty of positives at BGG.
So, some fun figures, good books/video, and a quick-play solo game - this is shaping up to be a great, quick project! I already finished cleaning up these guys and they will be primed soon. The Heroes of Nippon still need to be cleaned.
and remember...there ain't no disputin', Putin is Trumped by Rasputin'!
https://www.deviantart.com/leevancleefiii/art/Banzai-Charge-433473713
https://www.warhistoryonline.com/instant-articles/the-horrific-mass-suicides.html
Not having anything in the way of British campaign memoirs, I decided to go back to a great book I was planning to re-read anyway [and had recommended to one of my 1SGTs recently], "Shots Fired in Anger".
"Shots Fired in Anger" is a classic, an unapologetic and wonderfully detailed account of LTC John George's fighting in Guadalcanal with the 132nd Infantry Regiment [an Illinois Guard outfit] and with Merrill's Marauders in Burma. He wrote this soon after the war, and it is impactful in its incidental contrast with today's literary styles, including war memoirs. He doesn't wallow in gore or self pity, nor use foul language, nor does he gratuitously sexualize his account [all-to-common and contemptible trends in modern literature]. In short, this book IS of the time, in a good way, instead of just a distant reflecting on that time. I am considering reading it with my son.
The Guadalcanal portion of the book also has lots of pencil drawings and commentary about the Japanese Soldier, his weapons, tactics and habits, as well as an honest, unembellished account of LTC George's part in the fighting [and hilarious avoidance of fatigue duties]. He also includes the sort of details that Soldiers enjoy reading, like jungle survival and tactics, the pitfalls of institutional thinking and unnecessary sufferings of doughboy in every war. My local library has it, but it is pretty available at Abe Books and Amazon [CLICK].
In other literature, "Helmet for My Pillow" and "With the Old Breed" are also at my local library, and I've always wanted to read them. Still need to get at least one book on painting up my Japanese, and this project makes me want to get a Sgt. Rock omnibus or something - it's so "retro" 1970.
"The Pacific" Miniseries and "Hacksaw Ridge" are also in the video closet, and I've never watched them. While it is pretty hard to see videos these days due to bed times, our baby and noise levels, I definitely need to watch these soon.
So, there's some inspiration for this project, as well as it being a place I've never spent a lot of time.
As to project progress, it is shaping up quickly and nicely. The Japanese are featured in my previous post on these figs [CLICK]. The US, after some looking around, I decided to just use the ones we already had, and honestly a reassessment of them shows them to be a bit less characterful but still solid figs. In a way, it is sort of suitable for them to be a bit more drab - GI Authentic, perhaps?
Mr. Winkie and I have 12 poses that came in the bucket. Six are typical fighting poses, four are support weapons and two are support / leadership poses. As you can see immediately, the sculpting is deep and there's plenty of authentic looking gear on them, and the proportions are quite nice. My understanding is these are most likely Airfix knock-offs.
Two shootin' guys - the poses look natural, especially the kneeling pose which is how I'd shoot kneeling.
Stabbin' guy? Maybe he's shooting someone in a foxhole? Could also be peeking around a corner. His bayonet may have been left off the sculpted or cast copy. Grenade guy has a pose that reminds me of how I was taught to throw grenades, and has plenty of spare ones!
Crawl, walk, run - that's how we teach it in the Army, and here we have Crawling and Running guys. Again, very natural poses, nice proportions.
Boomer and Heat Miser, they are most likely to bust pillboxes and other strongpoints, as not many Japanese tanks around these days, but who knows? Maybe they'll head to France. Bazooka guy looks like he's just sighting out a target, not actually aiming at one since he's low [or on a hill]. Could be fixed with basing, or just ignored.
Grease-gun Gus and Ma Deuce, there to provide the firepower up close and far away.
So, guy on left could be any officer, or FO Guy. On right would be Obvious Commander guy. Interestingly, he's a left draw with his rather small sidearm. Perhaps a souvenir Jap pistol? Looks like a captain at least.
Overall, while these are a bit less characterful than the Brits and Japs, they are still quite good sculpts, well worth the second glance I've given them.
Another great piece of good fortune is that Decision Games has a solitaire game about Merrill's Marauders which I've now purchased, along with "Roger's Rangers: America's First Commandos" [CLICK] since I have the AIP F&I War figs which are really lovely sculpts [CLICK]. And I couldn't resist the operational level but highly rated Khe Sanh altho I won't be doing a miniatures game with it.
I really like DC's mini games and posted extensively on the Musket and Saber ones [CLICK] for which I re-wrote the rules...they were that much fun to play. If you want a copy of the re-write, just LMK. I'm hoping the Solitaire ones are just as good - they did get plenty of positives at BGG.
So, some fun figures, good books/video, and a quick-play solo game - this is shaping up to be a great, quick project! I already finished cleaning up these guys and they will be primed soon. The Heroes of Nippon still need to be cleaned.
and remember...there ain't no disputin', Putin is Trumped by Rasputin'!
Thursday, October 10, 2019
It's like stealing candy from a...Winkie?
Who made these? Probable Manufacturor: Hing Fat [CLICK] which has a Hong Kong base [& ".hk" domain] and similar stuff.
Who originally sculpted them remains a mystery. As I like them, I hope he's not pulling rice somewhere as a political dissenter of some sort. I'm OK if he's a commie, as long as he is allowed to sculpt in peace! :)
Seriously!!
EDIT: I finally found the lid, which has the best codes:
So, a few days ago, I was innocently studying in one of the comfortable "real living room" chairs I inherited when we sold off the family beach house. It should be noted that I was not - repeat NOT - looking for any gaming projects. I was, however, looking at the big mess my son had left on the coffee table from playing with his friends. It looked something like this:
I've since organized it a bit for this analysis.
One thing is for sure - all these toy Army Men are not created equal!
In size, proportionality and crisp sculpt quality, the Soldiers seem to be made from two different companies. All I can figure is that they were mixed together due to a WWII theme. The British and Japanese figures are as good as or better than a lot of metal wargame sculpts! See for yourself below.
Note that the grid is about 1" or 24-25mm square
The Limeys in 11 poses:
Bren Section:
Well, it's "the Bren guy" with the "only other prone guy" really.
Sgt. York? Or perhaps Sgt. Lancaster? And a standing guy whose pose is hard to discern...peeking around a corner? Just starting to run? Leaky bowel syndrom pose?
Thre solid poses. Guy to right is either about to bust a door down or give someone a wood shampoo!
More Bren gunners. Something about the helmet bumping against the upside-down magazine feed has them not only wearing Scottish bonnets, but holding the weapon well away from their faces. Accuracy just may be affected!
And of course the command section. Nigal Pennyworth and his trusty bagpipe operator, Jock Glenlivet.
It's a well-known fact that the Brits used the indecipherable communication ability of native "bagpipe whisperers" to confound Japanese signal intelligence gathering.
Next up, the Sushis in 14 [!] poses:
Major Kancho and his radio operator:
Sniper and surrendering guy:
Defiant Hero, Marching and Out of Ammo guy:
MMG Section:
Banzai Guys!
Shooter and Sentry guys:
These Brits and Japanese are startlingly nice, full of character and fun, heroic poses. Also, they are also made from "almost hard" plastic. It is not at the *SNAP* level of styrene that is used for modern plastic sculpts by Perry Brothers, GW and Warlord. Still, it can be trimmed easily and cleanly with an X-acto blade and almost filed or scraped cleanly using the side of the blade - I experimented a bit.
All of a sudden, I have a WWII project for One-Hour Skirmish Wargames! All I have to do is get the Brit/Jap figures out of Mr. Winkie's hands. He can keep the rest.
In contrast, the US and German figures are, well, typical plastic army men. Sculpting a bit off, proportions a bit flat, weapons a bit odd, etc. Check out comparison shots below:
Main oddity is that the "typical" US / German figs are about as hard as the nice Brit and Jap sculpts. All I can think is that they had the molds and a bunch of plastic and decided to run the figs off whatever was laying around the factory.
What I really want? More of these nice sculpts and more variety, plus their best opponents: DAK Germans and US Marines or Army / Pacific Theater of Operations.
So, anyone know who these Guys are???
EDIT: Thanks to John Y of "54mm or Fight!" blog for leading me to a very likely ID of these figs. The toy plastic Soldiers world is a bit more complicated even than the metal one! Most importantly, there are more nationalities to grab!
EDIT 2: Ran across an interesting post here:
http://smallscaleworld.blogspot.com/2017/07/erwinwatch-hing-fat-not-dgn.html
Basically, the guy says that "DGN" is not a company, province, etc of China but is short for "Design" and the company that makes the figures is Hing Fat, an "on call" manufacturer of...whatever you're willing to pay for. He seems to have an on going argument with two other guys about it. However, most important for us, the figures are consistently listed under the Hing Fat label, and uncommonly as DGN, so that may be worth noting.
Also of note, the Hing Fat figs come in tubes that are partially randomized - you need to pay extra at eBay to get a perfect distro of the figure poses from someone who has bought a lot of them and are now selling them in collectors lots of all 12-ish figs. That being said, the bucket my son was given seems to be the cheapest way to get a large number of them, and most if not all the poses. Said bucket was purchased at Amazon, btw, for about $20 [free shipping...depends].
Who originally sculpted them remains a mystery. As I like them, I hope he's not pulling rice somewhere as a political dissenter of some sort. I'm OK if he's a commie, as long as he is allowed to sculpt in peace! :)
Seriously!!
EDIT: I finally found the lid, which has the best codes:
So, a few days ago, I was innocently studying in one of the comfortable "real living room" chairs I inherited when we sold off the family beach house. It should be noted that I was not - repeat NOT - looking for any gaming projects. I was, however, looking at the big mess my son had left on the coffee table from playing with his friends. It looked something like this:
I've since organized it a bit for this analysis.
One thing is for sure - all these toy Army Men are not created equal!
In size, proportionality and crisp sculpt quality, the Soldiers seem to be made from two different companies. All I can figure is that they were mixed together due to a WWII theme. The British and Japanese figures are as good as or better than a lot of metal wargame sculpts! See for yourself below.
Note that the grid is about 1" or 24-25mm square
The Limeys in 11 poses:
Bren Section:
Well, it's "the Bren guy" with the "only other prone guy" really.
Sgt. York? Or perhaps Sgt. Lancaster? And a standing guy whose pose is hard to discern...peeking around a corner? Just starting to run? Leaky bowel syndrom pose?
Thre solid poses. Guy to right is either about to bust a door down or give someone a wood shampoo!
More Bren gunners. Something about the helmet bumping against the upside-down magazine feed has them not only wearing Scottish bonnets, but holding the weapon well away from their faces. Accuracy just may be affected!
And of course the command section. Nigal Pennyworth and his trusty bagpipe operator, Jock Glenlivet.
It's a well-known fact that the Brits used the indecipherable communication ability of native "bagpipe whisperers" to confound Japanese signal intelligence gathering.
Next up, the Sushis in 14 [!] poses:
Major Kancho and his radio operator:
Sniper and surrendering guy:
Defiant Hero, Marching and Out of Ammo guy:
MMG Section:
Banzai Guys!
Shooter and Sentry guys:
These Brits and Japanese are startlingly nice, full of character and fun, heroic poses. Also, they are also made from "almost hard" plastic. It is not at the *SNAP* level of styrene that is used for modern plastic sculpts by Perry Brothers, GW and Warlord. Still, it can be trimmed easily and cleanly with an X-acto blade and almost filed or scraped cleanly using the side of the blade - I experimented a bit.
All of a sudden, I have a WWII project for One-Hour Skirmish Wargames! All I have to do is get the Brit/Jap figures out of Mr. Winkie's hands. He can keep the rest.
In contrast, the US and German figures are, well, typical plastic army men. Sculpting a bit off, proportions a bit flat, weapons a bit odd, etc. Check out comparison shots below:
Main oddity is that the "typical" US / German figs are about as hard as the nice Brit and Jap sculpts. All I can think is that they had the molds and a bunch of plastic and decided to run the figs off whatever was laying around the factory.
What I really want? More of these nice sculpts and more variety, plus their best opponents: DAK Germans and US Marines or Army / Pacific Theater of Operations.
So, anyone know who these Guys are???
EDIT: Thanks to John Y of "54mm or Fight!" blog for leading me to a very likely ID of these figs. The toy plastic Soldiers world is a bit more complicated even than the metal one! Most importantly, there are more nationalities to grab!
EDIT 2: Ran across an interesting post here:
http://smallscaleworld.blogspot.com/2017/07/erwinwatch-hing-fat-not-dgn.html
Basically, the guy says that "DGN" is not a company, province, etc of China but is short for "Design" and the company that makes the figures is Hing Fat, an "on call" manufacturer of...whatever you're willing to pay for. He seems to have an on going argument with two other guys about it. However, most important for us, the figures are consistently listed under the Hing Fat label, and uncommonly as DGN, so that may be worth noting.
Also of note, the Hing Fat figs come in tubes that are partially randomized - you need to pay extra at eBay to get a perfect distro of the figure poses from someone who has bought a lot of them and are now selling them in collectors lots of all 12-ish figs. That being said, the bucket my son was given seems to be the cheapest way to get a large number of them, and most if not all the poses. Said bucket was purchased at Amazon, btw, for about $20 [free shipping...depends].
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