Showing posts with label 25mm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 25mm. Show all posts

Friday, August 2, 2024

Best Humvee Deal Around? Plus more!

This Humvee for $16?  I'll take 5 Please!

In the never-ending quest to build up great looking modern forces at affordable prices, some time and effort gets sucked into following leads from various helpful people at Fb and other gaming Forums.

When it came to vehicles, there's an interesting tension between finding the right size toy vehicles [die casts can be as little as $6-8 and around the right size] and more detailed resin / metal miniatures from traditional manufacturers like Empress, and finally scale model kits in the 1:48 range sometimes work.

Overall, my search resulted mostly in Humvees being around $27-35 depending on options, which can easily push one Hummer to $50 from Spectre, for example.

As I wanted some pretty "standard" vics with crew-served weapons mounted in a turret atop the Humvee, I felt like there had to be a better deal out there...somewhere. In this case, web searches pushed me to ETSY where I have bought a few resin items now and again.

Walter Norton: licensed Etsy printer of Miska Miniatures, Quartermaster 3D and more, in 6mm, 1/100, 28mm, 30mm and more. Small shop with continuing development of products and service. Shop located [HERE].

Service and Response time: Excellent, often same day within hours.

Prices: Average to Low, various discounts and sales push prices down. Free shipping on orders of $35+

Quality: Superior work on modest order I placed, no "layers" visible, models have been very clean. I've placed a full order valued at $125 or so, but got a coupon lowering it about $19.

Let's check out my test order...

28mm HMMWV HUMVEE by Quartermaster 3D  [CLICK]


Dimensions: Main body is just under 4" x 2", around a 1:50 scale after crunching the numbers Wikipedia offers for the Humvee.  Hole is for the turret.
Note: there is some camera lens distortion in the image below due to the top-down angle and the height of the model off the cutting board. I'm minimized it best  I can.


Comparisons with known figures: 28mm Lord of the Rings by GW.  Remember, Orlando Bloom acted in both "Blackhawk Down" and "The Outpost"!

What does scale really mean?  It just needs to look right on the table, and I think this Humvee suits my figs and table...

Two left Figs, 30mm Enemy Spotted Studios. Right figure, 28mm Rezolution. Keep in mind that they are on 2-3mm bases, so a bit tall next to the model!

Pulling out a bit for distance, ESS 30mm to left, a die-cast car from CVS on the right, overall things "look right" for a game table, IMHO>

I also ordered Technical Gunners, so here they are from left to right: ESS 30mm, Rezolution 28mm, Walter Norton print, ESS 30mm, Walter Norton Russian Kord and Dshk machine guns on mounts. Second with gunner.  The figs are all set up so feet are on the line, and the heights can be compared. The insurgent gunners are a little shorter, which I think is correct as most Western Soldiers are a bit taller [and these are 30mm].
Below, gunner, MGs with shields, unshielded. Note fig is about 28mm foot to eye.

Gunner and MG make nice fit on my die-cast toy from Walmart.


- The Humvee is $20 in a variety of configurations [some $18 or $19].
- The turrets can be purchased separately at $10 for 4 turrets. This allows you to buy extras for your kit-bashed vehicles!
- The Force Recon option is 5 vehicles and 10 Turrets for $80, so $16 a vic!

Overall, I think that this shop is offering the best deal I've seen for me in the Northeast USA, considering the total cost of product, shipping, etc.  Plus there's always an Etsy wild card of a small discount coupon that applies to certain items, so one can get another 5-15% off or so on a total order, typically.

I'm open to being directed to a better deal, of course!

FWIW, I placed my order for a Force Recon patrol of 5 Humvees and some additional vehicles and figures to round out what I already have!

Thursday, May 5, 2022

Die Cast PA State Police Cars

Commemorative Pennsylvania State Police Cars
For sale!

Mint White Rose collectibles in boxes.  As pictured, three types. Very few of the third, the 1969 Plymouth Fury. Great gift for your trooper, or retiree, or aspiring child! 

About 1:43 in scale. 
All approx 4.5" long, 1.5" tall, 1.5" wide, or
     12cm long, 4cm tall, 4cm wide
These would work in a skirmish game setting or diorama of 1/48 scale figures perfectly. Close for 28mm figures if not perfect.

$15 for one, $26 for two, $33 for three.
Shipping at cost.

Questions? send to my g mail which is
brasidas19004 with the usual AT gmail DOT com.
Thanks!




1988 Chevrolet Caprice - Second edition


1949 Ford - First edition


1969 Plymouth Fury - Third edition



Saturday, January 1, 2022

Play-thru: One-Hour Skirmish Wargames - Green v. Tan!

The rules, with summary and weapon QRS.

Choices for 1950s Green vs. Tan Civil War:
- default weapon M1 Garand, Rate of Fire 1 infinite, RoF 2 @<18"
- BAR, RoF 2 infinite, RoF 3@<18"
- Bazooka, RoF 1 @<18" but Blast Radius of 2" with High Explosive rocket.

Forces:
Tan has 1 BAR, 6 Garands - 1 is a Leader [2]
Green has 2 BAR, 1 Sniper, 6 Garands - 1 is a Leader [1]
Green has more men 9-7, and 25-20 point advantage, same ratios as original scenario. This shows how easy it is to duplicate the parameters of the 6 presented scenarios into another era with about the same numerical advantages. Tan has a slight leader advantage, probably trained by a Harvard infiltrator!

The Playing Space - a 48" x 20" marble coffee table in my study.

The Napoleonic scenario. "Capture the cannon" is a seize terrain and clear it of the enemy mission. Defending Tan has secured objective in table center. They may set up halfway across the board [from the objective back]. Attacking Green may set up 6" onto the board. Notes:
   1. The net result of 18" between forces is intentional - 18" being the "range band" of significantly greater Firepower, Tan may set up aggressively at table center, then leave Green the option to set up at 18" without knowing who will have first Player Turn! 
   2. Tan has the advantage of sitting on the objective, thus not needing to spend Action Points to move - this can be a significant advantage as each AP is a 6" infantry move or 1 Shot, so a moving force has to carefully spend a portion of its precious AP to move. 
   3. Note that this also gives Tan a Firepower advantage, being able to spend AP almost exclusively on Fire as they already own the objective.
   4. The average AP draw is exactly 7, with 1-6 and 8-13 being the lows and highs.

For this genre, I made it a Recovery and Rescue Combat Patrol. Lt. Drab and Pvt. Plastic are driving their jeep to establish an Observation Post, when they are ambushed by a dastardly sneaky Commie patrol! They are both wounded and out of the fight, but the shooting attracts a nearby Reaction Patrol, who arrive on the scene just as the Commies are about to make off with their wounded comrades and valuable intelligence in the form of maps and radio code books and such, plus lots of bazooka bubble gum.
This translates to "Green has to capture the jeep and clear it of the enemy [occupy it and no Tans within 6"] by the end of Turn 5, or break Tan's force". Same victory conditions as original scenario.

The materials needed. Blue [friendly] v. Red [unfriendly] decks, with green d10 turn counter. The d12 are to count down Action Points used.

Turn 1: The Fight Begins! 
Impulse 1.
Tan Player Phase. Commies win Initiative and draw a King for AP! 13 Action Points - will this end before it begins? This is enough to Fire all men and even maneuver a bit aggressively if desired.
Interesting development - perfect tie requiring complete re-draw.
On re-draw, a Tan Queen beats both Green cards drawn...
...and the BAR gunner goes down.
More shooting - to break same value different suit draws, one uses the priorities from Bridge: Spades > Hearts > Diamonds > Clubs. So Green wins this final card draw, like several before. Overall, Tan has 7 Fires and only Downs one Target - a bit below average Firing with 8 Cards v. 14 Target cards, should've been 2 Down by my reckoning. It helps that Green chose to set up outside of 18", halving Tan's Firepower from 15 cards to 8 Cards. Green's caution is well rewarded!

As Tan decided not to maneuver they Fire with 7 AP and lose the remaining 6 [so in effect, a 7 was just as good as an 8-King]. It is true Tan could've advanced a few men and gained some Fire cards by moving to within 18". But this could result in a man or two being exposed alone against a mob of advancing Greens if a Joker turns up, ending the Turn - believe me, I know!
Turn 1, Impulse 1.
Second Player Phase, Green. Green also draws well, a '10' for plenty of Action Points. However, at least a few must be spend to advance a portion of the team towards the objective - not all can be spent on firepower!
Green moves four Figs up including the Leader [4 AP] and Fires three [3 AP]. He Fires with three men [3 AP]. He concentrates Fire on the Figs in the path to the objective, as over-running each will also result in Close Combat opportunities if needed. Results are excellent, with the three Tans along the axis of advance all going Down! Note, this is a bit above average shooting in a largely 50-50 combat result game. Closing to under 18" gave the Garands 2 Fire cards and the Targets all had 2 cards to oppose: 1 you always get, and 1 was for light cover.
First impulse, Green outfought Tan by 3-1 with very close AP card draw.

Turn 1, Impulse 2.
First Player Phase, Tan. Well, this Player Phase disappeared quickly, with only 1 AP drawn! Tan Fired and missed.
Second Player Phase, Green. This Player Phase could be decisive, as a Jack was drawn for 11 AP!  Green advanced as rapidly as possible, removing one 
Tan Soldier through Close Combat, and doing some shooting that put Down the last Tan Soldier still standing at the jeep. 
The axis of advance is around the hill to the tree to the jeep.
Turn 1 Second Impulse [Green] end is that after correctly prioritizing the rapid advance [4 AP] against the Downed Tan Soldiers, then two Move and Fires [4 AP], Green drew a Joker which ended Turn 1.  

Results going into Morale and Casualty adjudication is 1 Removed Tan Fig, and a significant threat against the objective by Green!

Turn 1 end
means that Morale must be drawn - only Tan could possibly fail with their 1 Removed Soldier, but they draw an Ace needing to beat the number of Figs Removed, which is 1! Fortunately, their Leader allows drawing another card which is a 9, so the force is safe for now.

After Morale is drawn at Turn End, Casualties are drawn [most games adjudicate casualties then force morale, but not OHSW - JL says it "flows better that way"] by drawing a card for each - Red is Dead / Fled and Black is Back. Interestingly, all cards are Red! This puts Tan at a significant disadvantage, over 50% or 4/7 are removed while Green has only lost 1/11.

Final of Turn 1: the path is cleared to the objective for Green!

Turn 2: The Fight Continues! 
Impulse 1.
Tan Player Phase. Commies again win Initiative and again draw well for AP - a Jack for 11 AP! Question: Can they retrieve defeat from the jaws of victory??
Note: the 4 red, and the 9-10-2 red are the Casualty Cards...all Dead or Fled!

Answer: it doesn't matter! The first Tan shot is a Joker - Turn over!
Morale Cards are drawn and both easily pass. Casualty cards are not drawn as there are none to be adjudicated.

Turn 3, the Initiative cards were both Jokers. No, can't make this up. I'm guessing this at a 1/2916 chance. Bye-bye Turn 3! Note, I actually have no problem with this, and use a similar mechanic in my rules where if the Initiative rolls are identical there is a "respite" and all Units may rally or dig-in and the Turn ends. Think of it as the unexplainable "Battlefield Lull" phenomenon so often described...
Morale cards are drawn, and both sides easily pass, even Tan.
There are no additional casualties to adjudicate, obviously, so the only effect is that Green has lost a turn with a 5-turn limit! 
Well, on to Turn 4...

Turn 4: The Fight Continues but Green is running out of time! 
Impulse 1.
Player Phase1, Green. Good guys finally win Initiative 10-2 and draw a 7 for AP, dead average, but will it be enough? Green has to take and clear the objective - this means that all Tan has to do is contest it by being within 6" of it to win. And the Mission ends on Turn 5!  Worth noting is that turns can be very long or very short in this game - it is the Player Phases that are more regulated by available AP.
Green has to spend all 7 AP on Firepower, but successfully puts Down the three last Tan Soldiers!

Turn 4, Impulse 1.
Player Phase 2, Tan. Drawing a '6' is not a help - Tan is stuck doing nothing until a Joker is pulled and the Turn ends, and then passing Morale, and then having some of the three casualties that are Down survive to fight on!

Turn 4,Impulse 1.
Player Phase1, Green. A King drawn for 13 AP results in the Forces of Freedom engaging the Cowering Enemy in Close Combat. Altho two cards must be drawn for each CC, unless a Joker is drawn Down Figs are automatically Removed which is what happens here. The Tan force is entirely Dead or Fled - "Game Over, Man"!

Well, that was a heart-stopper, that's for sure!  Or was it?

GAME ANALYSIS
The game resulted in 4 Game Turns, with 12 Player Phases.
  1. Game Turn 1, 4 Player PhasesTan went first, Fired at long Range while holding position, resulting in below average Downed enemy of 1 [should've been 2]. Green fares better, advancing across the range band and Firing at effective range, also rolling a bit above average for 3 Down enemy. On Casualty card draws, Tan draws badly, losing 3/3 [on 50-50 chance] while green loses 1/1.
  2. Game Turn 2, 1 Player PhaseTan goes first, but is very limited on Action Points, achieving only a missed Shot. Green gets 8 AP before drawing a Joker, which result in 1 Down Fig, 1 Fig removed by Close Combat.
  3. Game Turn 3 No Player Phases: Was a combat lull, a lost turn putting more pressure on Green which had the burden to win within 5 Turns or lose the game.
  4. Game Turn 4, 7 Player PhasesTan couldn't act as all Figs were Down and no Jokers were drawn so the Turn did not end for the three Player Phases Tan got. Green drew average AP of 7, 6, 7 and King [but using only 1 AP of the King's 13] and moved up over his four Player Phases to Remove the last three Tan Soldiers through Close Combat.
So to summarize, over four turns, Green managed to out-shoot Tan, establish Fire Superiority, pinning most of the opposition then Moving into Close Combat to kill or drive off all opposition. Was this really any different from an IGO-UGO game with a more predictable player turn? Well, it was a bit.

If we imagine the game as 6 Player Phases that really mattered, we come up with what would be 3 Game Turns in a typical IGO-UGO game.
  1. Game Turn 1. Green outshoots Tan a lot 4-1. This was greatly helped by Tan drawing 1 AP second impulse and Green 11, nearly the equal of the dreaded 6-1 dice roll in DBA. Plus Tan drew 3/3 on a 50-50 chance for Casualties Removed.
  2. Game Turn 2. No significant results.
  3. Game Turn 3. Green Downs last 3 Tan Soldiers pretty easily having 3-1 Firepower. As turn doesn't "end" Green is also able to close and remove all remaining Tan Soldiers through Close Combat since they were Pinned.
Overall, the Turns don't play out very differently from any skirmish game with few Units and a fortunate couple of first turns for one player [rolling well to get hits] and an unfortunately couple of turns for the other player [rolling badly to hit]. Once pinned, the attacker charged over about double to triple move distance and destroyed the pinned enemy. The main difference is that there would have been more opportunities for Tan to rally his pinned Soldiers. The only way to rectify this - if you don't like it - is for there to be Casualty Adjudication at the end of Player Phases.

The interesting thing is that altho this would be a pretty typical short, small game for any skirmish set of rules, Sword and the Flame or whatever, it didn't FEEL like one!  The main issue is the nail-biting suspense of every card draw and the shock of a Joker turning up to interrupt a well-conceived plan [or terminate a terrible plan!]. In most skirmish games, you have the comfort of the bell curve presenting attritional results in all areas of combat. Here, you don't!

Overall, I did nothing that wasn't obvious with Green's force - I established a base of Fire, and after effectively shooting using my small advantage in men [9-7] and force points [25-20] I managed to pin the enemy in two stages of attack, after which I closed with and over-ran the pinned enemy. Lots of games may deliver the same results, just usually over fewer Impulses / Player Turns, and few would disagree with my Course of Action.

The main difference is that there are a lot of possibilities that DIDN'T HAPPEN with this game, including some improbable ones that did. For example, lots of Jokers were drawn at the start, leaving only one left. Then even after a re-shuffle of the Tan deck, another Joker wasn't drawn - instead, the Green force successfully drew about 10 cards to adjudicate Close Combat without drawing a Joker. Had a Joker been drawn, some Tan Soldiers could have come Back and they could have Fired at the now-close Green enemy, Downing THEM for a narrow win - all they had to do was have one fig within 6" of the objective at end of Turn 5!

So the game delivered quite realistic results, results that would occur in lots of other games as long as those games involve dice for combat / morale and variable movement.

Overall, this was a very enjoyable game, much more dramatic than a typical IGO-UGO. This was also the 6th or 7th playtest with these dollar-store Figs on the coffee table, including an enjoyable round with Mr. Winkie. Interestingly, Green generally drew better cards and won a majority of the games, say 5-2 or so. My plan never deviated.

My final verdict is still "Buy this book!

Wednesday, July 28, 2021

Tricks with Vics: Toy cars for Modern Wargames

Well, it has been a difficult effort - much more than anticipated.  Without further ado, here's my thoughts on diecast vics in wargaming...

First it is unusual to find a line of cars that are actually all the same scale.  What the manufacturer does is say "1:43" and many of the cars are.  But all the cars are the same SIZE, which is to say about the same dimensions.  So a Mini or Fiat 500 will be about the same size as a full-size truck, which means it is NOT the same scale as it should be much smaller if it was actually 1:43.  This is a common problem with nearly all the popular lines, and has to do with the manufacturing process no doubt.

So, right off the bat you have a problem - the scales of cars in the same line by same company do not actually match up, only the sizes do. This means you have to shop around and even carry your 28 or 25mm figs with you. Interestingly, a big vic in real life - say a large SUV - in a smaller scale may actually match up in size with the sub-compact made in a larger scale. So a 1/64 SUV may match up with a 1/55 compact.

The toy industry has its own priorities, and if you go for 20mm or 1/72 or 1/76, you are probably going to find plenty to use one way or another.  20mm figures are out there, and there are plenty of nice ones, so I recommend that if you want to fit into a tight battle space.  15mm is also no big deal, you can probably start using Matchbox cars at a $1 each.

If you go for 1/48, that is quite close to 1/43 and you can probably find a lot to use.  Only problem is that the game starts to need a lot more table space.  For skirmish games, a cluttered area is great as it provides lots of cover. But the vics quickly get big enough to be more like houses, and then the houses look small because they are often undersized. Undersized houses are needed because they become mountains when correctly scaled with the figures. Again, just something to keep in mind - do you want a large obstacle in the middle of your game table?  Or will figs be able to fight within the building?

If you are looking in the most popular skirmish rule scale which is 1/56 to 1/60 or so or 25-28mm [-ish] then you gotta dig around harder.  Toy plastic or metal cars in this size/scale are a lot less common.  Siku brand is 1:55 and from Germany, therefore available in the EU.  But they are almost unavailable in the USA as they are not exported here - something to do with safety regulations.  Buying them on line and shipping them over puts the into the $15-20 range quickly.

The popular 1:43 scale Chi-Com cars are quite frankly too big.  They make most 28mm figs look like kids getting into a car, and take up a lot of table space.  Plus, they may not fit into your terrain like roads and parking spaces unless you bought / created it to match them.

As I subscribe to the theory that terrain almost always has to be shrunken a bit due to scale considerations, generally speaking terrain pieces should be a bit smaller than in real life.  So, if a building would be 8" x 8" in true scale, it should probably be 6x6" in a wargame, or else it dominates the game space. This is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind unless you want to do the math of scale distortion.

What "looks right" ultimately has to trump any other decision.  A parking lot full of cars is a "terrain type" and shouldn't be represented exactly in most games.  So... what looks right??

Well, cars that are scale correct or a bit smaller.  And that means the car should be about 25-30mm wide in 25-28mm, and about 50-60mm long, for most day driver compact cars.  A few are larger, several are longer [the width of a vic is set by road / parking space / bridge widths, etc] but generally speaking, most of us drive a car that is less wide than we are tall, and 2-2.5 times our height. You can look up the 20-30 top compacts in various formats and that's about what their dimensions are.

So... what is the right choice as "scatter terrain" for urban warfare?

Generally speaking, it's a car that is smaller than 1/43 - it's more like 1/60.

Below, some trucks I got at the grocery store: a military truck, and an old-school farm / dump truck.  They were $6 apiece [thus giving its Chi-com manufacturer a mere $5 profit] but just the right scale for 28mm, IMHO.  So I took pics:


Below, another approach - buy and/or build the mat / table, then build / buy the terrain.  The parking lot sets a visual tone for the game.  These Deep Cut Studio mats are about a bit tight for 1:43 - the middle red car with the stripe is tight in the space and it's a sub-compact.  The top red car is better, but perhaps a bit small, and it is a compact. The pickup truck and the Army truck are just right. But nothing is perfect, including these mats from Lithuania.

Top is a Kidami car.  At Amazon, these are about $3 each in batches of 5, $2.50 if in a batch of 10.  They are bigger than Matchbox cars, and probably just right for 25mm, a bit large for 20mm.  Next down is a Mondo Motors [italian company] subcompact.  It is large, altho its SIZE is not bad for a 28mm car, it's just the scale is way off for a 1/56 car!  Next down, is an Adventure Force pickup truck from Walmart.  These are a measly $3.79 and come with oversize jacked-up wheels, but with a quick adjustment with a screwdriver - and alternate wheels - they are just the right size / scale for 28mm, IMHO.  Next down is the military truck from the above comment.  I got it at Acme, but it's presence is unreliable.

Another angle, same vics.  I like the relative sizes of all three without the Mondo Motors car.  They just "look right" together.

Admit it!  These match up nicely next to one another.  The Army flatbed is biggest, then the pickup, than the private auto. Overall, just right.

This makes the Midami look small. But It is probably realistic for a [sub?]compact 4-door.

Proof is in the Empress' pudding.  Two Empress Insurgents, one Terminator Genisys T-800, which is supposed to stand around 6' tall.


Let's get on the [light] truck!  These look just a tad big.  But not bad, and they fit nicely on the table, overall. Perhaps the door is a bit smallish.

The pickup looks just right here - it's the two figs that seem a bit off compared to one another. But this looks like it is a mid-size pickup, not big but not small.

This compact - or sub compact - looks about right.  The standing fig can easily shoot over the roof, and the kneeling guy can easily shoot over the hood.  The T-800 can sight over the entire vic!  This is a good size for a small red car.

This 1;43 Mondo Motors auto is a sub compact, most likely.  As such, it is far too large proportionately.  However, as a terrain piece, it is about the right SIZE for a generic car.  But it makes the figs look a bit dwarf-ish.

by width, the Mondo is too bit, and the Kidami is a tad small for the parking space. At far left, is another generic "1:43" pickup, which could be a large "Suburban" full-size truck, while the white truck is mid-sized.  The red Kidami fits nicely against the other vics, while the blue is a bit big next to the Army truck.

To get more specific, Walmart v. Acme trucks! The Adventure Force pickup is nicely sized, while the blue is very full-sized or too big-sized.  There's variety in truck sizes, more than we think...could be a Chevy Suburban pick up...but too big.

Adventure Force pickup.  Looks just about right for mid-size truck.
1:43 diecast.  It's a bit big - altho a Suburban size truck is quite large, this just doesn't look right on the table. The proportions are off.
side-by-side, not too different. But the blue has a lot more "mass".

This grouping makes the bus and truck look nearly right. Actually, the bus should be at least as tall and longer than the truck.  But the car looks good next to the light military truck.
Here, by comparison, the Mondo Motors car looks much too large. Crazy next to the bus, and obviously too big next to the army truck.
The farm truck scales nicely with the army truck.
The Kidami fits in - looks just right.

This angle really shows how oversized this subcompact is next to a truck.  The phone's camera always distorts just a bit - probably the lens is a bit small.

Below, a group of Kidami pics.

These are scaled wrong, as is the Porsche. The sort-of-hummer and the Benz should be larger and the Porsche smaller.  However, they look like other cars made today, and only a bit small compared to the figs, so I'm OK with this.

Below, Adventure Force pickup looks OK with the Kidami. Lens is distorting things a bit, however, the Kidami is smaller than it appears.

Nice shot - looks just like a small car should.
Closer - might even be a tad big.
This wagon looks a bit small next to the bulk of this guy.  Then again, Soldiers look a lot bulkier with their gear and weapons, anyway.

Below, a traffic dispute in downtown Baghdad?  Ford v. Chevy??

OK, let's pretend the SUV is a Scion, and the Posche a Panarama.  Still, not bad.

This shot makes the three look about right next to each other.  The light army truck is biggest, then the pickup, then the Porsche.  
"you cut me off, dog!"  "Take this, swine!"

Hopefully, this post will save you some time should you decide to buy some diecast yourself.  But overall, switching to 20mm is probably the easiest thing to do.  But they are a bit small for my aging eyes, so 28mm it is!