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Monday, March 13, 2017

Just Another Little Skirmish...

The rules have been steadily progressing. I've spent time reading a variety of texts that have provided insights, as well as keeping my historical interest piqued by reading NW Frontier books. Several days ago I did a run-through of the rules, which are substantially complete but need some more development and of course playtesting.

After stealing some concepts on scenarios from Muskets and Tomahawks, and Victory Conditions the MP classic Starship Troopers, a clash of patrols took place "somewhere along the frontier" in a battle of "very little importance"; indeed, it would hardly be worth mentioning in a dispatch except for the casualties.

The Table. All terrain is conceptualized in the distances between being either less than 6" or more than 6", this being the base move for foot soldiers. As Figs only perform one Action a turn, they will be exposed if they move between terrain that is beyond their move distance - and what else matters, really?

As this is a skirmish game, simply touching the terrain grants a '2' Cover Save, or 5+ on a d6. Line of Sight [LoS] is actual, so altho one may get a Save being seen is figured separately. Altho the table has more terrain in the middle, it has some open sight lines along the small river, and in the bottom left and right quarters. For the game, I'm leaning into a more terrain is better way of thinking as I conceive the Pathans as being smart enough to know how to fight in the hills effectively after a few thousand years of doing so! 

Scale, Ranges. Again, a small-scale skirmish game, shooting range is therefore generous and the ranges more dependent upon quality of sights, aiming, and clear LoS than theoretical effective range in testing. Therefore, weapons may fire out to double their Effective Range if a turn is spent aiming; this represents distance affecting rate of fire more than the chance to "get a Hit" as any of the soldiers / warriors in the game can easily place a bullet close enough to effect the target at all table ranges. So a true rifle like the Martini-Henry has an effective range of 36" BUT may fire out to double the range every other turn. This impacts the scenario in that ALL the table may be fired upon by all the firearms except the pistols.

Formations. This being a small-scale skirmish game, there isn't much in the way of formation rules. Figs are either close together [bases touching] or clearly apart. If touching, they support one another in melee, and if apart they get a 2 Save, or a 5+. If combined with the Cover Save above, the net Save is 3+. This puts forward another of my design goals, only providing rules for that which really matters, or is decisive. Could I have a formation or terrain that allowed a save of 1? Of course! But why bother? The warriors themselves are going to seek cover that really matters, or formations that are less vulnerable to shooting, from their training and experience. Why bother with in-betweens?

With these thoughts, on to the skirmish!

Victory for this scenario is based upon driving the opposition from the field by causing casualties [called Wounded or Killed but really representing out of the fight or incapacitated, respectively]. Casualties result in morale checks to the Force; if they fail, the Force will quickly retire from the field, possibly leaving wounded and dead behind. This results in loss of honor and more Victory Points for the other Force. These Forces are the scouts and patrols of larger forces, and if they are forced to retire intelligence and information cannot be effectively gathered, thus hampering the activities of the Main Force.

Turn Sequence, Initiative. As the scenario is a meeting engagement, the two sides dice for Initiative. The side that wins may take an Action with every Figure [Fig] in the Force, or hold off on Acting with any Figs desired until after the opposition. The Force that loses must take all its Actions, and cannot wait. Thus the Force with Initiative has both the opportunity - and risk - of acting first OR last with any Fig. Also, the side that wins Initiative dices for Initiative with a bonus of +2 until they either lose an Initiative roll or the enemy has Figs within 6" - at this point I judge it too unpredictable a situation for one side to have a clear-cut advantage, so resort to an even roll-off. 

If the roll is a tie, then there is a break in the action I call a Respite - Figs catch their breath, hunker down, load, and prepare for the next bit of excitement.

The Forces. I've nine Elite British with one a leader - The Sergeant - all with breechloading Martini-Henry rifles and bayonets. Elite Figs have a Quality of 3+, so will Hit shooting and pass Morale on a 3 or better with a d6. A tenth Fig is a Hero - The Lieutenant - with a Webley Revolver and a sword. He is Quality 2+, so a tough opponent! I toyed with having the Sergeant be the Hero, but that'll be for a different story. They Brits will fight in two teams, one lead by each Leader, to give them some flexibility. 

The Pathans have 18 Average warriors, Quality 4+. 11 have long weapons, 4 of which are Snider carbines, or breechloaders, the rest jezail muskets that need a turn to load between shots. 7 have sword and shield. The last 2 are Elite Leaders with a flintlock pistol, sword and binoculars [of all things]. They'll have two little bands of warriors, one swords and the other jezails, each led by a Leader. The four marskmen will shoot on their own without needing any Leader's help. Hopefully, they don't get Pinned!

Figs that do not have a Leader within 6" do not recover as easily from being Pinned, and may not want to move as fast or out of cover. So it is often important to stay together, altho one can leave a shooting or Elite force behind and get good service from it.

Pathans win the Initiative roll, so they decide to move last with all their Figs - therefore the Brits must all enter the table while the Pathans will enter the table last, after seeing the British choices.

Turn 1 Below. British view of the battlefield. There's open space in the middle, but a good wood to use as a base of fire on the right - it has a Line of Sight down the entire table. Getting into the woods or rocky hill near the river will provide a forward base with Cover.


Turn 1, Below. Pathan view of the battlefield. The open space to the left will have to be avoided - a change in Initiative could catch Figs in the open there and exposed. To center and right is denser terrain, providing an avenue of advance for the Pathan swordsmen, and a base of fire for the marksmen.


Turn 1, British Action. Brits Fast Move [marked with dust cloud] everyone on to the table, resulting in double move in the center by the Officer's team and a double move halved by the woods for the bottom team led by the Sergeant. The team in the woods now has a Line of Sight down the table, and a 3+ save from being spread out and in cover. The other has a 5+ save from being spread out, but are behind the rocky hill, anyway.


Turn 1, Pathan action. They also Fast Move everyone onto the table, and put the melee force at the river to right,  four marksmen with breechloaders against the hill, the jezails and a leader along the road to the center woods. All have a Leader within 6". Their plan is to use the rocky hill as a fire base while the swordsmen advance through terrain to fight up close. The jezails will go in the center to offer some shooting support and possibly join in the charge of the swordsmen with weight of numbers, as seems appropriate.


Turn 2, below. Brits advance for positions, the right team to offer firepower, or close support as needed - I'm relying on the 5+ save as there's no real cover there!


Turn 2, Pathans. The jezails move into the wood, the sharpshooters onto the rocks - ready to fire next turn, and the swordsmen cross the river.

In Turn 2, no one Fast Moved as you can't do that two turns in a row. Fast Moving also results in no Cover Saves at all since you are by definition moving too fast to get any benefit from terrain - you could end move out of LoS, however, so a FM can really help.

Turn 3. Pathans have kept the Initiative [IN] easily, moving first or last as desired. The Brits take up positions at the river and in the rocks. The Pathans respond by Fast Moving the swordsmen into the ruined building, and the jezails into the woods but still out of LoS [the edge of area terrain is the LoS line, so they can't yet be seen, nor see out].


Turn 3. Pathan marksmen fire to no effect - they hit on a 4+ and the Brits have a 3+ save. Note dust clouds on jezails and swordsmen from Fast Move. I now regret moving the swordsmen so fast - they get no cover benefit!


Turn 4. Lots of shooting breaks out. Pathans keep IN, which they keep for rest of game. Pathans edge swordsmen forward a bit, losing the dust cloud and getting better Save.


Turn 4. Pathan marksmen take out a Tommy. Black dice show two Hits [4+] followed by one successful save with green dice, a 3+, then the Brit checks his Quality for the effect of the Hit [which I see as a shot close enough to matter]. If he ties his Quality, he's Pinned, if he misses by '1' he's Wounded, and if by two he's Killed. Alas, poor Tommy rolls a '1'! British shooting is ineffective.


Turn 5. Pathans charge in! They take a regular move to contact a couple of Figs. It results in lots of Pathans attacking one Brit. There's 2 melee dice for the officer, and two more for the two warriors, one each, [black dice]. The Elite Tommy gets two dice [red]. The Pathans win the roll-off, getting two Hits, one of which is not blocked by cover [the green '1'] and then this chap ALSO rolls a '1' on his Quality! Poor luck or just carelessness?? The Brits have lost two Killed and done very little. What will the General say about this??


Turn 5. Other British team responds by dashing across the river and threatening Pathan shooting support. Gave this careful thought - the second team had to either move closer to their fellows in the rocks, or do something threatening and offensive, and I chose the latter.


Turn 6 kicks off with the Pathans keeping the Initiative, yet again. 


Turn 6. Pathan jezails move into LoS and shoot - black dice show 4 Hits, all Saved. There was only space for 7 Pathans at the wood's edge, as I wanted to keep the Save for not being together. I chose to leave the officer at the back. All Actions have a one base width free move at start, allowing small adjustments of position or facing for these alert individuals. This means you can pop into LoS and Shoot, but not hide again until next turn. This took care of needing any overwatch type rules and more needless complexity. Note that the jezails all need to spend a turn Reloading, now.


Turn 6. Pathan swordsmen keep up the pressure, and another Limey is Killed. Note the black dice winning a melee, getting two Hits [one from each Pathan actually in contact], one Save, the other not saved and a yellow dice for the quality check - another '1'!

OK, full disclosure here - I thought I was taking a risk with the British team led by the officer, but hey, I wanted to try out the melee rules...a tough training day for these Tommies!

Turn 6. British officer and Tommy shoot nearest Pathans for a kill. The red dice with black spots show two Hits with Revolver [Hooray for Mr. Webley, and well, the Beatles, I guess] and one with Martini-Henry, the red dice with white spots; two are saved and the one not resulting in a '1' and a Killed Pathan. First blood! The Sergeant's team kills one Pathan jezaileer in the woods, even as the team begins pulling back across the river to support their fellows - either shooting or retrieving fallen comrades as needed.


Turn 7 Pathans.  The swordsmen fiercely charge in again! Leader challenging the British Hero. Cool, calm and collected, the officer kills him outright. This is seen with his red/black dice outrolling the two black, and the yellow '1' showing his Quality Test - miss by two from his 3+ is a Killed result. Less fortunately for Queen Vic, the officer's last team member is killed. Dice don't show it correctly, I must've used them for another roll, but you can see the poor fellow to the top left of the pic, above the green marker.


Turn 7, British.  Hero officer fires his Webley to little effect. Sergeant's team is moving in at top left of the pic, just touching the fallen before them. Pathans at arm's length!

"Back, you savages! Take that <bang>! and That <bang>! The pop of a Webley in anger...

Turn 8. Pathans win Initiative yet again, and take the opportunity to make a surprise move - scarpering off! With the right moves, all the Killed and Wounded are retrieved, with all getting out of LoS or in cover. Amazingly, all the sharpshooters Hit the British officer standing tall atop the rocky hill, like some crazed bronze statue! Equally amazing, he saves every single one of them! He then fires the Webley at the Pathan dragging away the dead Leader, but his one unsaved Hit is shrugged off by the fierce warrior who is clearly determined not to leave his Leader behind. The Sergeant's team have to move over but are still threatening the retreating Pathans with some distant firepower. 


Turn 9. Skirmish winds down. Pathans pull into cover, load weapons, and pull back under the guns of their sharpshooters in the rocks at top right. A lone shooter carries his dead comrade into the little gap below them. With 7-8 Pathans still shooting and all their dead and wounded secured, Queen Vic's men have no more opportunities for glory this day.

At bottom left, the Sgt's team secures cover from any final Pathan incursions, as the Officer carried away one dead redcoat. The other three will have to be carried by the team. It was a close haul all the way through, with some higher casualties than should've been expected, frankly.

Counting the cost - and the Victory Points! Pathans lost six dead and two wounded - the high number of dead has to do with bad rolling - seems like they always rolled a '1' instead of a 3 or 4 which would result in a Wound or Pin instead. Six of the casualties were from the swordsmen, unsurprisingly. Only two of their jezail-men died. As all the Pathans are worth the same, shooter or swordsmen, they gave up 20 points for the 5 dead, 4 for the 2 wounded [1/2 or 2 each] and 9 for the dead Leader, or 33 total. They also lost no honor for failing to take away their dead and wounded.


British lost four dead for 32 pts, 6.5 for the wounded officer [1/2 of 13 pts] for 38.5 total.

With the Pathans coming out ahead, 38.5 to 32, their margin of victory was 1.2-1, not quite enough for a win, which I'm presently saying is 1.25 to 1. A decisive win would be 1.5-1. So I'm giving the Pathans a marginal victory for being over 1.1-1. 

Present Victory Point schedule is:
0.00 - 1.1 = tie
>1.1 - 1.25 = Marginal Victory
>1.25-1.5 = Victory
> 1.5 = Decisive Victory
Of course, it could be in margins of .20 instead of .25, but one has to start somewhere!

Thoughts. I am pleased with how the rules played out. Nitty gritty bits of mechanic went quite smooth. There are plenty of options for players with every Fig, but most choices are in the fire and maneuver vein, as is to be expected with a straight up patrol clash.

Some mechanics, like Fast Move, worked just right. You can do it every other turn, and it paces things nicely while giving players opportunities to seize terrain, suddenly threaten, etc. Yet, it isn't overwhelming or unrealistic. The strict IOGUGO sequence actually plays very smoothly, and one side has INitiative for a few turns usually, giving them opportunities to set the game's pace. While it is harder for the side without INitiative to do the same, it is not impossible and careful planning can also result in unexpected threats to the enemy. 

I'm especially thrilled with the system of Saves. They are easy to remember, drive action and decisions, feel realistic and have significant impact that can still be thrown on its head by good or bad luck, which I'm OK with. One is always in the player's control - spreading out the Figs - and the other is driven by terrain and maneuvering - taking Covering terrain. On a table with less terrain, or with it spread out differently, the hills and woods will provoke totally different choices by the players, especially when combined with the mission's victory conditions.

A few things I want to work out is further differentiating shooting combat from melee combat. The former is mostly about Pinning and the latter about taking ground, IMHO. I'd also like to make shooting a little cleaner with a distinct difference between average and superior troops.

Overall, this was a great, fun game, filled with interesting choices but driven by core combat principles rather than loads of special rules. This made it feel very realistic but also play very simply. This core platform of rules can certainly withstand the occasional extra rule for a unit, such as cavalry or cannon, without becoming bogged down and tedious.

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Malakand Field Force prep continues!

Lots of 1:1 Army work has slowed down my time spent on the project, but a bit of early spring weather made it possible to do more of the priming and spray work. I've tried heating up the garage a bit using a space heater, and that does work - in a couple hours on a sunny day I can usually get it in the 50 range, but I prefer the outdoors to spray in.

Below, I glued all the figs to cardboard so that the spraying wouldn't knock them over [these are not as heavy as metals, of course!] and I didn't like spraying them laying on their side. Altho that does get better coverage, one has to wait a while to flip them over and spray the other side without getting some of the paint pulled off the elbows and such. I'm planning go touch up with brush primer, anyway.

Below. Results of the white priming with the Rustoleum featured in the previous post. They look pretty good I think.
EDIT: sorry, meant to say that the chap on the top, 2nd from left, poised on the ball of his left foot, did crack the primer coats at the foot - not surprising, considering the leverage of the figure against that one little point. Care should be taken to handle the figs carefully, preferably by the base, during this stage.

Notice that the white cavalryman has less shading. Ergo, I wouldn't pick white for the color of any of the plastics. Generally, I think the darker tones are best.

Below. More priming with Army Painter Skeleton Bone Primer on the Soldiers. It was the last of the can nearly, and a bit old, so it has a rough surface. I've heard of this happening with AP products, but I'm not overly concerned - I'm going to hit them with a khaki brush coat, and then "The Miracle Dip". Camel is AP Brown Leather Primer and horse is AP Rat Fur Primer. There was no problem with the texture on either of these.
The constant question with all my unit painting - prime dark and work up in shade, or prime white / light and work down - as I'm planning to Miracle Dip, which tends to darken, I'm trying the latter first. As I've several units in the works, I'm not worried about opportunities to try various techniques.

Below. Everything so far - painting tests with black, grey and white primer, ten Bone primed soldiers, two riders, horse and camel. I clearly have to put some time in on these!


Testing. Figs prepared using cheap black spray paint, Rustoleum grey, and white primers. We'll see how they take paint this week, and how both coating and coloring are affected by the primer. Sorry the Frenchie is hard to see in the lighting.

Pathan Horde! They need to be cleaned up, and the mold lines etc removed. I think the darker color will prime better at this point. Six sword/shield, two officers with flintlock pistol, sword and binoculars [binoculars??], and 12 shooters. 
Also, a nice frontal view of the camel - "Hey! You staring at ME??" 

Finally, I sprayed all 50 of the 1.5" MDF bases by VP Sales, featured HERE using a favorite color, "Make It Suede" that happens to be close to my favorite base cloth color [and has a wild smell as well!]. These were layed out on the same cardboard, and the initial coat get them a bit stuck on, but not in a troubling way. I did two opposite edges [which hits the top also], flipped them over and turned 90 degrees, then sprayed the other two edges [hitting the bottom side as well of course]. This results in total coverage at minimum paint outlay.

It's important to remember that MDF board will crumble when exposed to moisture, so I spray paint the entire base altho I'm mainly concerned with the edges which is nearly all you can see after I flock. Remember, there's always spilled beverages, water leaks, etc, that threaten your bases! I look forward to getting the figs on these for handling safety as well as the fact that I've incorporated the bases into the rules.

That's everything at this point: Four figs to test paint as individuals, ten to paint up as a squad, and twenty Pathans to clean up for priming. Overall, this should be an exciting week of discovery both for craftiness and artistry. 

Another thing that's needed - some more playtesting of the skirmish rules, which are going really really well, and I'm quite excited about them! That should be a post very soon.

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Malakand Force fights under Wee Willie Winkie

One of the fun discoveries about using the Armies in Plastic figs is that they are much more durable than metal. Actually, when unpainted there's nearly nothing except serious abuse that will ruin them. This has meant that my 7yo son has been able - at times - to set them up without me even being around, and unworried that anything will happen [he's still forbidden to touch anything on the work table, however, under pain of losing his Good Conduct Medal]. So it's also been a lesson in "following the rules of the office" as well as the rules of the game.

I thought up a quick couple of rules that use dice and he is making great progress in playing: each soldier shooting gets 1d6, and Brits hit on a 4+ and Pathans on a 5+. Melee is 1 dice per Pathan and 2 per Brit, high roll winning. He still doesn't like to take casualties, but is getting used to the fact that "war is heck". The infantry move 6" and cavalry 12". Guns get 4d6 and can destroy a building or terrain on a natural '6'. The air power [hey, I just live with certain things] is a flying cannon but can take on defense airpower by hitting it on a natural '6', also.

Below, Wee Willie has deployed his forces to face the Pathans and their Arab jihadist allies. At right are the British and their pals, at left the Pathans and theirs. A couple of guns are also helping, but no airpower on the table today - he likes to field an A-10 Warthog, which is a pretty intense support element!


At top, are the English, in center the Scots [I'm rarely allowed to take a Scot as casualty, an Englishman usually has to suffice] and at bottom the Indians.


At top, the Pathans have suffered trying to assault the English with their sword and buckler men. One Hero continues to charge the English on his destrier. At bottom, green Arabs prepare to engage the Indians [really lovely, dynamic figs, btw!].


While I did have some idea that the plastics would make it easier to do something with the lad, I had no idea just how much he'd enjoy it. So a big ++ rating on using the AIP for family fun. I may have one of the only kids in town whose idea of a game has no screen!

If you want to head this route, be sure to check out the 8 for 5 deal at AIP - buy a 6th box and you get free shipping which pays for the box! So no-brainer there, you pay for 6 and get 9 total boxes, HERE. This is more than enough for two sides of anything, or both sides of a couple of different periods in skirmish fashion.

Friday, February 10, 2017

More AIP work - Malakand Field Force Prepping

"You there, form a line, prepare to receive savage hordes with Stiff Upper Lips!!" 
Lord Balderdash, shortly before having his muttonchops, well, chopped, on the savage frontier with Noweirastan - a ghastly affair.


Had some less scheduled days to continue getting acquainted with the AIP plastics, and my prepping and priming job. The cheap black paint [not even primer!] held up to some strong finger rubbing with no problem. Bending the gun had the paint flake off, and scratching with a finger nail had the paint come off down to the blue plastic[as seen below].


The French officer [above left] had an obvious mold line down the middle of his face that I somehow missed in the prep process. I decided I didn't want to live with it, and also to see how little touch ups would go. I cut off the line with an X-Acto down to the blue plastic, then primed with Testors Grey bottle primer, then painted with my junky old GW Chaos Black. As you can see, his face looks just fine! The grey-primed Brit had his injector-pin marks covered with some old Testors Contour Putty. It quickly dried and I sanded it soon after, but I let it dry for a couple days, then brushed on some of the Testors Grey primer -he looks fine, too.

The kneeling Brits in shirt sleeve order look washed out with the flash [above], so I took a couple more pics, below. You can just barely see the putty touch-ups from the injector circles. I think they'll be fine, but if not it's more my fault at this point - the putty works and it's my technique that's lacking. Filing them with a dirty soft - grit sponge file from Steven's Int'l wasn't a great idea, either, but I think the soft file itself is an idea with promise.



Different light, below. Some of the tiny bits of torn plastic can just be discerned on the right leg of the right figure, in this pic. I'll try another coat of the white Vallejo brush-on primer.



Armed with some more hands-on experience, I finished cleaning and prepping the below squad, from AIP #5423 1895-1902 British Army. They have a bolt-action rifle [I assume a Lee-Metford but the magazine extension below the stock isn't angled enough - that could be corrected with a cut, but I'm uncertain I will bother] and modern sword bayonet. There are ten poses, two of each in a box. They show nice variety for skirmishing figs, but people who like their figs marching in neat rows may want to look elsewhere. With the offered poses, you could get 4 boxes and have a 2 units of 16 advancing with bayonet and 2 units of 16 firing [kneeling and standing] and they'd look fine, I think. Officer's would all be firing their Webley revolver, but some could be modified as ensigns, perhaps.


Note that figs with the Martini-Henry and socket bayonet are in box #5447 British Infantry of 1882 [those also have some different poses, including prone and a high-thrust bayonet, as well as the older belt and gear]. So be certain which look you prefer! If you want figs for 1880 Adghanistan, South Africa, Zulu wars, etc, get the #5447. In any event, I'm fine with these chaps, as they suit the Malakand Field Force era, and came for nearly nothing in the Ft. Khandahar playset! It should be noted that the Indian Infantry with turbans #5446 also have this later era weapons and gear, same as above.

Also prepped were a mounted British Officer and a Camel Corps Bugler of some sort - both came with my second order [more on that later]. Tony threw in a batch of ten sample bags worth $10 for free. Quite smart, and making me work harder at resisting more purchases!


The Horse and camel are just fantastic, a bit harder plastic than some of the men, it seems, especially the camel. I just love these camels, and will have to get another unit of them soon. As you can see, these aren't the usual pony and midget mounts of most metal figs, these monsters are good 3" high, the rider making them 4". They'll certainly be lovely on the table!

So have already decided I must have a uni of Egyptian Camal Corps with fez, and perhaps Naval Brigade with sun hats, as well. They are 2 for 1, and quite a large force of them could be assembled with the 8 for 5 sale [multiplying the items together, one would have a 16 for 5 purchase of camel corps!]. Pretty lovely for animals renowned for their poor dispositions! Yes, I realize that Egyptians and Naval Brigade didn't fight on the NW frontier - we'll just have to see who the Queen decides to send to the relief of Ft. Kandahar, won't we?


So my net will be 40 of these later era fellows, more than enough for skirmishes against the Mad Mullah! And here they are practicing their squad maneuvers in the field:


Pegasus river, craft fur field, Lemax Large Cypress Trees

Overall, quite pleased with the progress. I was a little daunted by having to learn so much new technique, but it's gone quite well. A few things we've learned and shared:



  • Dremel with sander bits, very lightly touching, quickly removes mold lines and the ejector pin marks. But push too hard and you get annoying "fraying" of the plastic.
  • Sometimes it pays to just make a clean, decisive cut on a bit of flash - but definitely use a very sharp, newer X-Acto blade.
  • Dragging the X-Acto along perpendicular to a mold line also seems to work, but the top of the blade should lead the bottom cutting edge, lest you get wavy scrapes on the figure.
  • Hot water and dish soap do well to clean off the release agent - the figs are less shiny after the hot bath and scrubbing with old tooth brush.
  • The Elmer's Glue seems to make the paint more durable - uncertain if one needs it and primer. Martin Rapier says he just paints right onto the glue, and my French officer seems to be coming along fine.  
  • EDIT: I often get some beading on the plastic with the Elmers. be certain to allow the glue to completely dry if you are going to put on a second coat, preferably overnight. Before watering down your Elmer's, give it a try and see how you like it straight out of the bottle. I find that the dry heat indoors during winter makes it dry fast and get tacky quicker than usual. 
  • I am going to try the Super Tacky Glue by Nicole again, and see if there's less beading with that. 
I've been comparing notes and such with the gang, but nothing clearly different being done by anyone else. More on this technique as things develop! Questions or submissions on using any of these techniques, or working with plastic? Just fire away in the comments or send email. Hey, we're learning here also!

Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Work and tests on AIP Plastic Figs begins

So this is definitely a learning curve. None of us have worked with soft plastics in ages, if at all. I had some as a kid, some 1/32 NATO Germans, and some Old Guard from Waterloo that I did a kid's paint job on.

Our determined [and forgiving] TMP scout Queen Catherine did posts there and got some good pointers on PREP and GLUE for these figs. The upshot is that there's no one way to do it, but I'm going with something like this:

- scrape mold lines with new X-Acto blade perpendicular to the line, OR run a hot hat pin along them [!?]

- clean in hot/warm soapy water with dish soap,

- fill mold ejector pin marks with miliput / green stuff, etc
- priming in the basic color of the unit / group,
- block painting the rest,
- quick highlight by drybrushing darker bits,
- dip in shading solution of some sort for a light shading,
- gloss coat? Maybe, certainly enhance the toy soldier look.

I'm loving Martin Rapier's POSTS on his AIP armies, and they are quite inspirational. Certainly makes it hard to decide how and where I want to roll with this project in the future, or future projects. I'm quite aware that this is the 100th year[s] anniversary of WWI, and that's a pretty appealing prospect to game. In any event, more for the future.

For now, we are learning PLASTIC.

Below, several figs partially worked up. I've a French officer to left, and three 1880-ish Brits in "shirt sleeve order" all of whom've been cleaned up and had Elmers coated. The coating wasn't as obscuring as I feared. Above are two more untreated or even touched Brits, and two blue Boxers, the one on left has been cleaned with soap and water only, the one on the right has been cleaned and given a coat of Super Tacky glue by Nicole. This is a shinier and stickier glue than Elmers. Hard to see are the circular ejector pin marks and mold lines, but I took a couple of pics in various lights.





The Dremel sanding bit has worked nicely to scrape mold lines. The toothbrush helps clean off some - not all - the plastic fraying bits, and the two glues look and feel very different from each other - uncertain which is better.




Below is my first squad of 1898 Brits. They've bolt-action Lee Enfields or something, certainly look like the venerable SMLE. Behind is a lovely officer charging on a horse. Incidentally, the horses and cavalry are really fine in these sculpts, with lots of the animation one desires in cavalry. A couple of stray gunners are at the back, one with a swab and the other carrying Gatling drums.



Below are the three cans I'm testing for primer. The two on the right were almost $6 each. The left was 97 cents. But I've had great luck with cheap flat black in the past, and I'm going to give it a go again!

Below is the first round of work. I did clean the mold lines on all three Brits, but not the Boxer. It's hard to see in this view but yeah, he looks, well, "moldy". The Brits have little patches of Testors sculpt on them, already dried. I've filed it down a bit. I tried Dremel-ing the injector marks, but that still didn't work, so I used some Elmer's to soften them more, but after the priming you could still see them.


Above, the grey and white Rustoleum primers. They are on there, but don't seem "particularly" durable.

Below, the flat cheap junky black. I also brushed on some junky, beat-up old GW Chaos Black on the Frenchy to the right. He looks quite good, and will make a great test fig.


Interestingly, none show the mold lines and other annoyances very well in these pics. I'm probably going to scale back a bit on cleaning them up, as I learn what matters and what doesn't. And hey, I'm looking for a few things from this project:
  1. Inexpensive,
  2. BIG figs with impressive visual appeal,
  3. Quick, easy painting that looks good at distance, and invokes some "toy soldier" appearance in a good way,
  4. Characterful battles with a skirmish-y feel; sort of a TSATF thing but playing a bit faster and a tad more realistic in some aspects.
So far, I think the project is ticking all the blocks nicely. I also had some time to tinker and work on the rules a bit, and pushed the focus back into single-fig action, about a squad or two a player. We'll have to give them a play tomorrow!

The BIG Box Arrives!

Service was prompt from the distributor. As stated in the last post, I wanted Fort Kandahar but AIP didn't have it [altho AIP had an identical fort in different color plastic, it was in the French Foreign Legion playset - queries into obtaining the fort by other means weren't returned, so I went with a distributor]. I used HobbyLinc and got good prices and service - received the box within about ten days.

AIP Foot boxes are about 20 figs - occasionally they are 16 or 18. Guns usually have 1 Gun and 5 figs, but again, there's some variation with a few having a second, small gun, and a Fig more or less. Cavalry are always 5 per box and include officer, bugler and three troopers - you can get special sets of 10 figs that have 5 more troopers so you don't duplicate the office and musician.

I tried to craft an order based upon prices, availability and usefulness for the project. In the end, I received Fort Kandahar - in that box as part of the playset was two boxes of Afghan Tribesmen, one box of Indian Foot and one of British Foot [all 20 figs each]. I also got boxes of Arab foot and Mounted Arabs [5 figs], two Camel Corps boxes [one with officer and 3 troopers, the other with two troopers and two supply camels - camel boxes always have 4 camels, and are huge!], a box of Highlanders, and a box of Indian lancers.

Thus there are a number of large, imposing pieces like the camels and elephants for supply trains, some cavalry, a variety of foot, and a fort. Plenty for eye-appeal as well as interesting skirmish scenarios. The breakdown for forces is something like:

20 British Foot - bolt action rifles [10poses]
20 Indian Foot - bolt action rifles [10 poses]
20 Highland Foot - Martini-Henry rifles [10 poses]
5 Indian Lancers w'command [3 poses]
8 camels [officer, 5 troopers, 2 supply]
2 elephants [1 with 2 wounded, 1 with water tank, both with drover]

20 Pathan foot - [10 poses; 6 rifle, 3 sword/shield, 1 officer binoculars & flintlock pistol]
20 Pathan foot - [10 poses; 6 rifle, 3 sword/shield, 1 officer binoculars & flintlock pistol]
20 Arab foot - mercenary jihadists [I just had to get these, they were so nice!]
 5 Arab mounted - ditto.

The fort is pretty amazing, with 6" walls and 7" towers, sitting 18" square with doors, ladders, etc. The whole thing is quite imposing and the playset was...$41!!
Yeah, 80 foot and a fort for $41 - can't beat that with a stick, not even our Scottish brethren complained [altho they were suspicious with disbelief and kept mumbling about searching for a catch "in the wee small print"!!]. I think the entire order was about $125 with shipping.

Below, huge box on right, contained Ft. Kandahar playset and 8 more boxes of goodies!

Below, closeup of Fort with 80 bagged infantry within.

Below: closeup of additional boxes.

Well, couldn't resist getting all the little fellows out on the table! I immediately played out several playtests of our adaptation of the Neil Thomas Skirmish Rules from "Wargming: An Introduction". I really wanted to see if I liked the figs, their size, the way they handle, etc. Verdict: big thumbs-up! They are easy to see and eye-catching, without being startling. They are actually smaller than they sound, when you say "54mm".

Of course, my 7yo son had google-eyes as soon as he saw them. He begged for permission to "make a set up" and then wanted to play wargames with dad, so couldn't resist that. I quickly developed a simple variation of shooting with dice, melee, etc. Naturally, I "let the wookie win" and it was fun, a nice bonus. All we have to do is remember not to smoosh the figs together when they fight!

Below, Pathans and Arab mercenaries to left. British advancing up valley on right [from top, British, Indian and Highlander foot, with camel trooper acting as officer in center]. I've been pecking away at the Indians in center, but an advance by my swordsmen was wiped out by the Highlanders. My jezails in the rocks are doing OK.

Below, closeup of the carnage among the Indian foot.

Below: Pathans with guns - the set has them armed with a variety of weapons, including 5 jezails and what appears to be a Snider carbine.
They are hiding among an "All Living Things" reptile decor hill, which all the pieces are, obviously, as they've identical paint jobs. Basically, I was in a hurry to try something out and figured I could always return these to Pet Smart if I didn't like them!

Below, Arab riflemen. At bottom is prone rifleman who did a "Hollywood fall" from the heights. These are lovely sculpts; animated, detailed, characterful. They all are, really.

Below, high tide of the nativist uprising. Highlanders gun'em down.
Just visible to right are the ensign with flag and pistol, and bagpiper [of course!].

Well, no complaints here. These guys are even fun to play with unpainted, altho the big steep learning curve for that is well on the way, with books ordered, questions asked, and more, at TMP.

Overall, must highly recommend AIP. The figs are soft plastic, but are pretty clean - about the same mold lines as most hard plastic figs - the only additional problem is they all seem to have 3-5 little circular indentations on the back of the fig, probably from the mold injection. They're visible, sometimes very much so, and will have to be worked out in some way.

Aside from this, they are lovely figs, cheap, and appear quite durable. Poses are as good as most metals, altho they sometimes evoke that "toy soldier" un-natural look, but I think most people will find these very satisfactory.

If you want lots of fun for nearly nothing in small skirmishes, or you'd like to build large armies of huge figs but can't afford All the Kings Men metals, I highly recommend these guys!